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'People are afraid to say a word': inside the closed city of Ashgabat

When Stanislav Volkov began reporting for the Alternative Turkmenistan News, the secret service cut his internet and threw acid at him – all for daring to describe the harsh reality of daily life in this notoriously reclusive capital

• Makalany türkmen dilinde okamak üçin, şu ýere basyň | Read in Turkmen

W hen I was child, Ashgabat was known as the “garden city”. It drowned in greenery, canals gurgled with mountain water and trees cast a shady cool even in July and August. In the evenings, neighbours would gather around gazebos and drink tea.

After Turkmenistan gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, Ashgabat experienced a second birth. Today, modern Ashgabat is jokingly called the “city of the dead”, because it is almost impossible to see people in the new districts of white marble. The city holds the Guinness Book of Records title for most white marble on Earth. It holds several records, in fact: the world’s largest enclosed observation wheel, the largest fountain, the largest mural of a star. The new airport has the world’s largest image of a Turkmen carpet, adorning the main passenger terminal. Until recently, the capital even boasted the world’s tallest flagstaff. All of these new toys, these buildings, parks and roads, were supposedly built for the people. They paid for it with their silence.

I was born in Ashgabat in 1987, and began school in 1994. I remember how in the first class we were given badges and a watch bearing the image of the president Saparmurat Niyazov, which we had to wear every day. At that age, I did not quite understand the idea of a personality cult, and my parents did not really want to explain it to me.

What I did come to understand was discrimination. Our family didn’t live richly: Dad worked as a welder, Mum as a high school teacher, and we lived in one of the less prosperous parts of Ashgabat. It was here that I first felt the manifestations of Turkmen nationalism. Passing through the streets of the city, we heard the Turkmen shouting after us: Russians, go to your Russia.

Niyazov had begun to introduce the idea of his own superiority into society, and began to rebuild Ashgabat in his own way. Dozens of historical monuments were destroyed and hundreds of houses demolished. In their place, high-rise buildings were built, faced with white marble. Almost all the perennial trees were cut down, replaced by coniferous trees unsuited to a dry climate and giving little shadow. New highways were laid, and the irrigation system of canals, which created the city’s special microclimate, was almost completely destroyed. In place of the old tea spots are car parks or outright wastelands.

As the Russian-speaking population began to leave the country in droves, a campaign began to eradicate the language. Non-Turkmen employees were fired, and universities stopped accepting students with non-Turkmen names. Many of my friends and classmates did not wait for graduation and simply left the country.

My family could only dream of moving to Russia. After the death of my father in 1997, it became very difficult for us to live. To feed the family my mother worked three jobs. After graduating from school in 2003, I wanted to leave for college in Moscow, but we did not have the resources.

It was then that I had an idea: to change something in Turkmenistan. But after the so-called attempt on Niyazov’s life in November 2002, and the subsequent wave of arrests of anyone critical of the authorities, it was impossible to imagine quite how.

In 2006, I managed to leave for Russia, enrolling to study economics at the university in Rostov. But the next year, having run out of money, I was forced to return to Ashgabat. I eventually graduated college as an electrician, and began to work.

T he ascension to power of Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov the year following Niyazov’s death began a new wave of destruction in the city. Berdimuhamedov immediately set his sights on eradicating his predecessor’s memory. He initiated “reconstruction” of the central avenue, named after Niyazov, meaning it was entirely torn up. He built his new palace there, demolishing dozens of houses for the purpose, and blocked an entire street to the public, turning it into his personal boulevard. Along any central street through which the president might pass, it is forbidden to open windows, install air conditioners or satellite dishes and hang clothes.

The authorities invested in developed infrastructure, but not in qualified specialists: as a result, in the hot summer months, some neighbourhoods languish for days without water and electricity, while in the centre of the city fountains flow around the clock and lights burn brightly for no one. Across Ashgabat, the authorities seemed to take a special pleasure in destroying centuries-old trees, which in their opinion prevent the expansion of roads.

Among the pompous facilities in which they invested billions of dollars, the airport stands out – and that’s in a city which also built an international bus terminal that, for the first five years of its existence, has not served a single international route. The airport, meanwhile, cost $2.3bn and is designed to serve 1,600 passengers per hour, but operates at 10% of capacity. To build this new airport, a whole village, Choganly, was demolished. Amnesty International has counted about 10,000 demolished buildings, home to roughly 50,000 people. The reason for the demolition? The president worried that foreigners would see the unattractive everyday life of ordinary Turkmen people from the windows of arriving planes.

Because the president dislikes animals, city authorities have killed stray dogs and even households pets in barbaric ways. Animal advocates who report these executions to foreign media are threatened with violence, deprived of internet access and have criminal cases fabricated against them.

The few activists and independent journalists who try to bring the real situation in Turkmenistan to the world are similarly harassed and intimidated. One striking example is a criminal case against independent journalist Saparmamed Nepeskuliyev, who was arrested in 2015 on false charges of possession of the illegal Tramadol drug. Nepeskuliyev reported for foreign media outlets – including Alternative Turkmenistan News and Radio Liberty – on the poor condition of roads in his native city, the lack of drinking water, and the problems in health care and education. The result was three years of imprisonment, and perhaps worse: his name was recently included on a list of people who have disappeared in Turkmen prisons, as none of his relatives know where he is or what condition he is.

I n 2013, for the first time, I sought out one of those independent journalists, Ruslan Myatiev, telling him I wanted to write about the issue of prejudice against dual Russian-Turkmen citizens such as myself. When word of the article spread on the Alternative Turkmenistan News that Myatiev started on Facebook in 2010, my employer warned me never to speak to Myatiev again.

But I don’t think it was until three years later, when my mother became very ill, that I properly came to the attention of the Turkmen special services. I’d again turned to Myatiev for help – we jointly managed to obtain permission to go to Moscow for an operation for my mother – and I began to send him photographs I’d taken of various scenes in Ashgabat: the killing of animals, poor roads, the state of the cemeteries , the life of Orthodox Christians , and so on. Myatiev published these stories at Habartm.org , which he runs from exile, and others anonymously, knowing it wasn’t safe to identify me by name: one of his other journalists was jailed earlier this year.

Nonetheless, the security services knew what I was doing, and for that I suffered: I was cut off from the internet, and occasionally attacked in the street. I had to use several mobile messenger platforms to send information, as the security services would block them after I’d sent a batch of photos.

On 25 April 2017, as I was on my way to the grocery store with a friend, an unknown man splashed me with an unidentified liquid and ran off. At first, I did not attach any significance to this incident: my hand was only a little red. In the evening, however, the pain began, and a couple of days later the area had blistered. The liquid was a diluted acid.

After my mother’s death, I inherited her apartment, sold it for half its worth, and left Turkmenistan for good. Turkmen special services detained me at the airport for 20 minutes – one last effort to shake my nerves.

Life goes on in my old city. Everyday people struggle to find work to support their families, in conditions of high unemployment and total corruption. According to independent estimates, unemployment in Turkmenistan has reached 60%. Yet the latest addition to the city? A $5bn international “Olympic village” built for the recent 10-day Asian Games.

I do not want to return to Ashgabat, if only for the simple reason that there is nothing left of the old city I remember. It is not enough to change the capital: you must change the political situation in the country as a whole. There is no justice in Turkmenistan, because the entire judicial system is in the hands of the president and the Ministry of National Security, which he controls. State media are a mouthpiece of power, regularly calling the president a “hero” and describing him as “respected”, and the time of his reign is never anything but an era of power and happiness. And people are afraid to say a word against the authorities.

Many residents remember with a bitter smile the documentary about Ashgabat by the Belgian journalist Tom Waes. Invited by the authorities to create a favourable image of the country abroad, Waes and his film crew came well prepared to be objective. They filmed the clumsy attempts of “civilian guides” to hide even the most innocuous evidence of everyday life: a messy shelf in the market; a shopkeeper’s thermos of tea; a dustpan and broom for cleaning. Everything is fine in our city, the guides were at pain to show. In Ashgabat, as in Baghdad, everything is calm.

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Ashgabat is a wealthy city packed with marble palaces, shining gold domes, and large expanses of polished streets. Ashgabat means “the city of love” translated from the Arabic language and it was founded in 1881. The city is located 25 km north of the border with Iran, in the Kopet Dag foothills. There are 650,000 people living in the capital of Turkmenistan.

The city has been listed in the Guinness Book of Records several times as a city with the largest number of buildings, finished with white marble, of which there are about 543 in Ashgabat. The world’s tallest flagpole 133 meters, which is now held by Saudi Arabia with a height of 170 meters. The largest Ferris wheel, the largest fountain complex “Oguzkhan and Sons” with a fountain total area of 15 hectares and finally, the biggest architectural monument with the shape of a star: “The Oguzkhan Star” on Turkmen television tower.

Niyazov, the ex-president of Turkmenistan, declared himself Turkmenbashi, or “Father of All Turkmen,” and “President for Life. Niyazov famously had a gold statue of himself erected in the center of Ashgabat which even rotated and more of golden statues across the country. In 2006, Niyazov died of a heart failure. 

His successor, Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov, a former Health Minister took over the new position and that rotating monument was moved to the outskirts of the city. Today, Berdymukhamedov has his own gold monument, in the form of a Bronze Horseman similar to the monument that Catherine the Great had built in St Petersburg to honor Peter the Great.

History of Ashgabat

Ashgabat was only formed at the beginning and middle of the 20th century, around a Russian fortress, that was built-in 1881 at the crossroads of the caravan routes. Ashgabat became a wealthy city, mainly due to being the Russian frontier town on the Trans-Caspian railway. But, at 1 am on 6th of October in 1948, the city vanished in less than a minute, destroyed by a powerful earthquake, later measured nine on the Richter scale. More than 110 000 Turkmen died decreasing the population greatly. Although the official figure was 14 000 it was the era of Stalin, when socialist countries didn’t officially suffer disasters. After the breakup of the Soviet Union, Turkmenistan took the title of the most authoritarian of all former Soviet states. The country’s post-Soviet leader Saparmurat Niyazov, formed a political system based on strict control and hydrocarbon wealth. Furthermore, he set an ambitious plan to change the appearance of Ashgabat which today looks like something being in between Las Vegas and Pyongyang.  

The popular legend related to the origin of the name of Ashgabat runs roughly as follows: The children of the rulers of Nisa and Anau fell in love. They fled into the mountains, but their god disapproved of their romance and caused all springs and rivers to run dry as they approached them. The lovers were on the point of dying of thirst and the angel of death was sent to them. But the angel was so enraptured by the beauty of the young woman that he forgot all about his task. At this, a spring of clear water suddenly appeared from the ground, the young couple was saved and decided to settle on that spot. Ashgabat was born.

Ashgabat Sights

Central ashgabat.

The main roads of the city are the Turkmenbashi avenue, which stretches from the train station to the new area of Berzengi, and Magtymguly avenue running east to west perpendicular with the Turkmenbashi avenue. Numerous of the city’s landmarks and organizations are on or near these streets. Turkmenbashy Square in the main center of town was allocated the number 2000, the first year of Turkmenistan’s ‘Golden Century’. The numbers of other streets generally fall to the east of this central square, and rise to the west of it, though there seems to be little clear logic in the assignation of numbers to streets. All the streets used to have only numbers as their names, but they have now been mostly returned to alphabetical names.

Ashgabat Berzengi District

Berzengi district is the main pride of Ashgabat, an entirely artificial new world of white-marble tower blocks, fountains, parks and general emptiness that ends in the Berzengi Highway where a most of the city’s hotels are located. Berzengi district was one of the main focus areas for the Ashgabat redevelopment project of President Niyazov. Today it is one of its major features of the city, with governmental hotels, built by numerous Turkmen government organizations on the president’s instruction in the mid-1990s. The hotels are all composed of different styles, varying from exotic to mundane. Others are more equipped up for Turkmen wedding parties than for tourists. Although, even if you are not staying here, the hotel strip of Berzengi is worth visiting as one of the more unusual sights of post-independence Ashgabat. 

Independence Park

Taking Saparmurat Turkmenbashy Shayoly street, southwards from the city center, behind the Yimpash shopping center and the Olympic Stadium, you finally reach on your left the largest and most impressive park of Ashgabat, called the Turkmenistan Independence Park. The park was first set in 1993.  Most of the area is covered by plantings of coniferous trees occupying an area of almost 2km long and 1km wide. The park also holds a large number of the most significant monuments of Ashgabat.

Ashgabat Independence Monument

Independence Monument stands on the highest ground in the Independence park, at its southern end. The city’s main attraction  is a 118 m high column crowned with a crescent moon and five stars. This column is set on a semicircular sphere, symbolizing a yurt. Independence Monument is surrounded by a series of statues of the historical leaders, notable Turkmen poets and figures of legends whose lives and works are praised in Ruhnama and the other nation-building works of the Turkmen government. 

Five stars are a representation of the unity of the five largest Turkmen tribes which have been living on the Turkmenistan territory since ancient times. The independence monument has been given the nickname ‘eight legs’, a reference to the eight struts across the domed base, that water flows down from.  There is a viewing platform at the height of 91 m, reached by a lift inside the column, though this is open only to members of official delegations, with prior permission. 

A pathway leads to the Independence Monument from Saparmurat Turkmenbashy Shayoly and it is guarded by four large statues of Turkmen warriors. Then you are greeted by a golden statue of ex-President Niyazov, with a two-man guard of honor. 

The president’s statue stands at the heart of a pentagonal fountain, which also includes five golden five-headed eagles, each in the process of crushing a two-headed snake. Jets of water spout from 35 of the possible 36 mouths in the composition. This statue is a favored place for Turkmen newly-weds to be photographed. 

Ruhnama Book Monument

On the western side of the park is the Ruhnama Park which, according to the English-language inscription on the plaque at the entrance, was ‘completed in February 2003’. The completed park is an honor to President Niyazov’s book and is centered on a huge statue of Ruhma in the shape of a giant-sized replica of the green cover book. The book was  written by Turkmenbashi, the first President of Turkmenistan, himself. During the special occasions, the book opens up to create a double-paged ‘screen’ on which images of the achievements of post-independence Turkmenistan are projected.  The book, considered holy for Turkmens, describes the first President’s biography, country’s history and the basic commandments and moral principles the Turkmenistan people should follow.

Monument of Neutrality

As with any cult of personality, Turkmenistan’s cult of personality  Niyazov, who ruled for over two decades, made Ashgabat a centerpiece of the country. As one of the monuments built by the cult, the arch of neutrality was also built.

Arch of the neutrality is a 75 m high rocket-shaped tower topped with a gold statue of Niyazov, which rotated throughout the day so that his face is always basking in the sun. Built-in 1998, the marble-covered monument honored his adoption of neutrality as his official policy, and cost over $12 million to create.

Constitution Monument

The Constitution monument sparkles in the daylight and glows at night with the colorful lights. The height of the monument, including the spire, reaches up to 185 meters, symbolizing the date of adoption of the Constitution 18th day of the 5th month. Furthermore, this figure has another meaning with 185 UN member states recognizing the neutral status of Turkmenistan. The height of the tetrahedral tower, decorated with Turkmen carpet ornaments on all sides and topped with a spire with a gold crescent and five stars, is 91 meters, which indicates the year of independence of the country. 

The tower rises from a three-stage 27-meter base, shaped like the legendary star of Oguz Khan as well as a 10-meter platform with porticos, cascading fountains and grand staircase on all sides. These parameters 27 and 10 are the date and month of the establishment of the Turkmen state. Two viewing platforms, located at the level of 27 and 118 meters, offer a scenic panorama of the capital and its suburbs. The monument to the Constitution is surrounded by a square with fountains and a forest park zone. 

Once you enter the building you can see screens providing information about the monument to the Constitution in three languages – Turkmen, Russian and English. In the six halls of the museum, there are also touch screens and displays with images in a 3D format that allow visitors to get visual information about the modern Turkmen state, constitutional lawmaking, history and cultural heritage of the Turkmen people. 

The museum also has a traditional exhibition with  original souvenirs made from precious metals and stones, state awards of Turkmenistan and various commemorative coins. Ancient manuscripts, samples of clothing and jewelry, musical instruments, household utensils, as well as some archaeological findings characterizing different periods of history are  placed in the many showcases.

Galkynysh Area

In January of 2011, the list of sites of Ashgabat was complemented with the square of Revival (Galkynysh) at the intersection of two avenues – Turkmenbashi and Galkynysh, with an impressive monument in its center – a triumphal column crowned with the globe and a presidential standard.  A monument to the Constitution, the five-star hotel “Nusai” and Presidential Palace Complex “Oguzkhan” were inaugurated in Ashgabat on one of the main national holidays – Day of Revival, Unity and Poetry of Makhtumkuli, coinciding with the day of adoption of the Constitution of Turkmenistan. Simultaneously, a complex of buildings of the Main Directorate of Civil Defence and Rescue Work of the Ministry of Defence of were revealed, forming the south-western part of the new square together with the already existing university and other grand buildings.

Presidential Palace Complex "Oguzkhan"

“Oguzkhan” Presidential Palace Complex is a white marble structure an  official residence and principal workplace of the President of Turkmenistan. It has been the site of the presidential headquarters and home of the president of Turkmenistan since the late 1990s. Ex-president Saparmurat Niyazov lived in the palace between 1997 and his death in 2006. Presidential Palace, was built in Ashgabat, in 1994-1997 by French company Bouygues on an order of the President of Turkmenistan Saparmurat Niyazov.  Interior rooms trimmed with marble and fine wood. For the interior decoration of the palace for 55 thousand dollars was ordered 14 handmade carpets with a total area of 218 square. m.  According to various reports, its value amounted to 70 – 80 million dollars. 

The new building was built in May 2011 replacing the smaller Turkmenbashyy Palace located nearby. The Palace is part of a larger complex also containing the Presidential Palace which is on the west side of the complex bordered by the Independence Square. The complex is bordered on the north by Palace Street, former Karl Marx Street and on the south by Renaissance Street.  Keep in mind that taking a picture of thee structure is forbidden. 

Wedding Palace

The Wedding Palace “Bagt Koshgi” (Palace of Happiness) was introduced in Ashgabat for the celebration of the 20th anniversary of Turkmenistan’s independence. The palace was built by a Turkish construction company by the order of the Government of Turkmenistan.  The building, consisting of 11 floors, each side of which is an eight-pointed star by shape, impresses with its uniqueness. At the top of the building there is a cube with a 32-meter sphere inside. This shape symbolizes the planet, where the map of Turkmenistan is also depicted. The Wedding Palace can register 7 to 12 pairs of newlyweds at the same time. It consists of three halls for celebrations, seven banquet halls for weddings, dozens of shops and different services, including wedding dress shops, wedding decoration of cars, rentals of jewelry and national embroideries, photo and beauty salons and finally parking spaces.

Palace of the Knowledge

Palace of the Knowledge is located on the Southern part of Independence Park. It has three large buildings that include a library, concert hall, and the Turkmenbashi Museum. The museum houses all the gifts and awards presented to former President Niyazov by various people around the world including especially lots of gold. 

Ashgabat Museums

National museum of turkmenistan.

National Museum of Turkmenistan is a gorgeous building in the southern suburb of Berzengi and the Western part of Independence Park. The museum lies just against the Kopet Dag Mountains in the south. National Museum was opened in 1998 during the visit of the former Turkish President Demirel. A path leads up to the museum from Archabil Highway taking you past twin sculptures of winged horses and zig-zagging columned arcades, that trace a complex pattern around the central museum building.

The State Museum of the State Cultural Center of Turkmenistan is the first and largest one of the 26 museums established following the independence of Turkmenistan. Five clusters of columns, representing the five Turkmen regions, support the dome. In the center of the space between them is a model of the Turkmen state emblem, on a golden plinth. Between the columns, there are display cases with copies of the texts of some of the key documents in the life of post-independence Turkmenistan, including the 1995 UN General Assembly resolution granting the country its neutrality. The permanent collection of the museum is laid out in eight halls on the ground and first floors. The second floor is used to house temporary exhibitions, usually coinciding with the main national holiday events.

Turkmen Carpet Museum

The Turkmen Carpet Museum sits at 5 Georogly street. The museum presents a large range of carpets from across Turkmenistan in its two floors of galleries, which are located on both sides of the entrance hall. Left side of the ground floor presents the Yomud carpets from western Turkmenistan.

On the first floor there are also many Tekke and Sarik carpets and carpet bags. The displays feature both antique pieces of the 18th and 19th centuries and modern designs, the latter sometimes making a political statement. A carpet from 1968, incorporating designs characteristic of different regions of Turkmenistan, is labeled “The carpet of the brotherhood of all Turkmen tribes”. Nearby is also a carpet representing the family of President Niyazov.

The space between these galleries is occupied by a hall, that has a back wall covered by a huge Tekke carpet, covering an area of 193 m2. This was the work of 40 carpet-makers, who worked during 1941-42 to produce a carpet intended to be used as a curtain at the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. It was reported to be too heavy for that purpose and was therefore returned to Turkmenistan. A small carpet at its base lists the names of the carpet-makers who worked on this great project.

This huge carpet is a miniature in comparison with the one hiding in an extension building at the end of the western gallery of the museum. This is a Tekke carpet, covering 301 m2, a prodigious 21,2 m in length and 14 m in width. It was woven in 2001 by 40 carpet-makers of the Baharly state carpet enterprise, who completed the task in time for the tenth anniversary of Turkmenistan’s independence. The carpet is dedicated to the ‘golden age of Saparmurat Turkmenbashy the Great’, and includes President Niyazov’s signature in yellow lettering. There is a certificate proudly attached to the carpet from “Guinness World Records”, supporting the claim that this is indeed the largest hand-woven carpet in the world. The extension building was constructed specifically to house it. 

Turkmenbashi Cableway

Turkmenbashi Cableway provides magnificent views of Ashgabat and the surrounding desert. It starts from the base of the Kopet Dag, south of the National Museum and climbs to a height of 1293 m above sea level on a lower peak of the Kopet Dag. The top terminal has souvenir shops, a restaurant, cafe, picnic spots, several high-powered telescopes for sightseeing and an 80 m high artificial waterfall. It takes 10 minutes to travel the 3,5 km long cableway. 

Ashgabat Bazaars

Gulustan bazaar.

Gulustan Bazaar is also known as the Russian Bazaar among residents is the largest and oldest covered bazaar located in the center of Ashgabat. The bazaar was established in 1972-1982 with the intention of a Russian architect along with other constructions that were involved in the “Ashgabat Reconstruction Program of 1970-1980. Gulustan Bazaar stands in the solid Soviet structure, based around ten pillars, each supporting a section of the roof. Its central area is filled with fruits, vegetables and other groceries. The central area is surrounded by a line of shops, selling more imported goods, alcohol and household stuff. Clothes stalls surround the main market space to the south and east. 

Alemgoshar Bazaar

Alemgoshar Bazaar is a cozy suburban market, sits in the southeastern part of the city, and is more widely known as the “Sto Fantanov” (‘100 Fountains’) Bazaar, after a fountain ensemble which lies close by, in the strip of parkland running beside the adjacent 1934 Kochesi. The 100 fountains themselves, built as part of the commemorations in 1981 to mark the 100th anniversary of the foundation of Ashgabat, are less than exciting. 100 little tiled circles, from the centers of which water presumably once spouted, sitting in a basin. Nearby, 100 plane trees are another result of what seem to have been celebrations by numbers. The bazaar is focused on a fruit and vegetable market, with several rows of clothes stores behind.

Guneshli Bazaar

Guneshli Bazaar means “Sunny Market” which is better known by its Russian name “Optovi” which means wholesale market. It is located on a scruffy plot at the southern edge of town, on the corner of 1945 Kochesi and 1946 Kochesi. There you can get imported packet food, household goods, alcohol and boxes of cigarettes from stalls housed in metal containers. 

Kopetdag Bazaar

Kopetdag bazaar   lies along 1995 Kochesi, east of the Hotel Nissa. It is commonly known as the ‘Old Fair’, or often simply as the Domiki (‘little houses’), since the stalls comprise chalets, in front of which are metal-framed tented spaces in which the wares are presented. Most of the stalls sell imported clothing and footwear, though a couple of places offer Turkmen handicrafts and carpets.

Around Ashgabat

Altyn asyr bazar.

Altyn Asyr Bazaar (official name) is more known with its Russian name “Tolkuchka”. It is officially known as the Number 4 Bazaar and also carries the Turkmen name ‘Jygyldyk’, but it is the Russian name that has stuck. Tolkuchka means, roughly, ‘Little Push’, and it seems a more appropriate name for the bazaar. This is the largest bazaar in Ashgabat and Turkmenistan and one of Turkmenistan’s major sights. Nevertheless, it is only open from around 08.00-14.00 on Thursdays, Saturdays and is particularly populated on Sundays. 

Tolkuchka Bazaar is located in the outskirt of Ashgabat in the residential area of Choganly. Like any other bazaar, it is a colorful, chaotic place, offering wildly contrasting sights. The marked is packed with everything from animals to Korean carrot salads and certainly some Chinese clothing and shoes with names like “DG” written often little bit inaccurately. Whatever you want, it’s sold at Tolkuchka, but primarily from the point of view of tourists, it is popular for the carpets. If you purchase any carpet remember to get an export certificate for it from the carpet museum before taking it out of the country.  Watch out for pickpockets in the bustle of bazar.

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque is the greatest mosque in Central Asia that can hold about twenty thousand men and women at the same time. The floor of the mosque is covered in handmade Turkmen praying mats and an enormous eight-sided carpet decorates the very center of the mosque. The mosque consists of two floors: on the first floor, men pray and on the second, women. Furthermore, it has four minarets and a golden dome sits the central upper part of the mosque. The height of each minaret is 91 m, and the dome is 50 m high, covered in gold. 

The mosque is enclosed by extravagant fountains and gardens. There is also a huge underground parking area for around 100 buses and 400 cars. The total area of this complex is 36 ha. The mausoleum of the first President of Turkmenistan, Turkmenbashy, and his family is settled next to the mosque. At the opposite of the entrance to the mausoleum, you can notice the memorial statue in remembrance of the 1948 earthquake in which thousands of people died. In the center of the mausoleum rests the tomb of the late Saparmyrat Turkmenbashy, surrounded by those of his family members who died in World War II and the 1948 earthquake in Ashgabat.

How to Get to Ashgabat

All international flights to Turkmenistan arrive here and Ashgabat is also the point of arrival and departure for each domestic flight, except one route between Dashoguz and Turkmenbashy. From Ashgabat, there are five flights daily to Dashoguz, two to Mary, four to Turkmenabat, and three to Turkmenbashy. There is also a thrice-weekly (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays) flight to Balkanabat. All internal flights currently use Boeing 717 aircraft. 

Initially known as Saparmurat Turkmenbashy International Airport today is nowadays called just Ashgabat International Airport. It lies at the northwestern edge of the city, some 5 km north of Magtymguly Shayoly. The best (and cheapest) way into the center of Ashgabat from the Airport is to take a shared taxi.

Turkmenistan trains are a rather good, affordable and convenient way to move around the country. Particularly night trains are a good option to save up on accommodation for visitors on a tight budget. Trains however are not always the fastest way to travel inside Turkmenistan. If you are seeking a faster way, airplane, bus, and shared taxi are often better options. 

Two trains a day head westwards towards Turkmenbashy. Three trains head east: to Atamurat, Serhetabat and the long journey to Dashoguz via Turkmenabat. There is also a twice-weekly departure to Serakhs. Ticket prices are inexpensive, though vary considerably depending on the class of the seat. The real cost of rail travel in Turkmenistan is measured in time more than distance: around nine hours to Balkanabat, 13 to Turkmenbashy or Turkmenabat, and 24 to Dashoguz. 

The Ashgabat’s railway station sits at the northern end of Turkmenbashy Shayoly. You can notice the building right away, with a central spire topped by a crescent and five stars. Its domed central hall features a design-heavy on five-pointed Soviet stars and bunches of wheat. You can check train schedules on the official website .

Bus - Minibus - Taxi

Turkmenistan can also be entered by road borders through the neighboring countries. Turkmenistan shares borders with Iran, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Afghanistan. Once entering a border, you have to pay 14$ entry tax and they can only be paid in US dollars. If you are entering by car, expect the different taxes to be more than about 100$. Make sure to keep an eye on your belongings as there have been reports of robbery in the border control, perhaps by the Turkmen border guards. Remember also to keep in mind what you are carrying to the country since there are regulations for example about the cigarettes, alcohol and certain type of medicines like painkillers and sleeping pills.

Most tourists cross to Turkmenistan via Uzbekistan due to the geographical position.  The most popular border is the Farap border not far from Bukhara .  There are taxis waiting to offer their services on both sides of the border and if you want to save, you can share the car with other travelers. The  Kazakhstan border from the Zhanaozen-Turkmenbashi road is not very popular popular as the road conditions are not the most pleasant ones and taxi services are expensive due to the long distance and somewhat low demand.  The border control point to Iran is located in the town called Seraksh, which is about two hour away from Mary. There is a twin town with the same name on the Iran side of the border. 

International bus station of Ashgabat is located at very northern end of the city not far from the Altyn Ashyr bazar.

Ashgabat Public Transportation

The most popular mode of travel around the city are the white buses.  Yet there no maps or lists of routes much available, so you’ll need to ask locals which bus to take wherever you want to go. Like in almost every other city in the former Soviet Union, you can just hold out your arm on the street and a car will soon stop and give you a lift to wherever you need to go and prices can be negotiated. Ashgabat has no metro or tram system. Taxis are of course always an option.

Sights and destinations near Ahsgabat

All turkmenistan destinations & sights.

Page updated 6.3.2021

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Getty Images/iStockphoto

With its lavish marble palaces, gleaming gold domes and vast expanses of manicured parkland, Ashgabat (‘the city of love’ in Arabic) has reinvented itself as a showcase city for the newly independent republic and is definitely one of Central Asia's – if not the world's – strangest places. Built almost entirely off the receipts of Turkmenistan’s oil and gas revenues, the city’s transformation continues at break-neck speed, with whole neighbourhoods facing the wrecking ball in the name of progress, and gleaming white marble monoliths springing up overnight like mushrooms.

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Attractions

Must-see attractions.

National Museum

Looking like a lost palace in the urban desert, the National Museum occupies a striking position in front of the Kopet Dag. It’s actually a collection of…

Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex

Unveiled in 2014, this vast complex features three memorials honouring those that died in the 1948 earthquake, soldiers who perished in WWII and those…

Independence Square

At the centre of Ashgabat is the enormous Independence Square, on which sits the golden-domed Palace of Turkmenbashi (the place of work of the former…

Arch of Neutrality

Once the centrepiece of Niyazov's Ashgabat, the Arch of Neutrality was erected to celebrate the Turkmen people's unsurprisingly unanimous endorsement of…

Carpet Museum

While there’s a limit to the number of rugs the average visitor can stand, the central exhibit, the world’s largest handwoven rug, really is something to…

Museum of Fine Arts

The Museum of Fine Arts is located in an impressive building with a big rotunda, two tiers and lots of gold. The collection contains some great Soviet…

Independence Park

The Altyn Asyr Shopping Centre is the curious pyramidal shopping centre at the northern end of Independence Park. The Monument to the Independence of…

Statue of Lenin

The statue of Lenin, in a small park off Azadi köçesi, is a charmingly incongruous assembly of a tiny Lenin on an enormous and very Central Asian plinth…

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• 1 Understand
• 2.1 By plane
• 2.2 By rail
• 3 Get around
• 4.1 Museums
• 4.2 Monuments
• 4.3 Religious sites
• 4.4 Other sites
• 5.1 Theatres
• 5.2 Amusement Centers and Diversions
• 10.1 Internet
• 10.2 Airlines
• 10.3 Emergencies
• 10.4 Embassies and consulates
• 10.5 Medical services
• 10.6 Registration
• 11.1 Nearby
• 11.2.1 By plane
• 11.2.2 By rail
• 11.2.3 By 4WD

Ashgabat ( Turkmen : Aşgabat , also Ashkabat, Ashkhabad, Ashgabad, etc.) is the capital of Turkmenistan , surrounded by Ahal Province . It was designed as to be an impressive capital city, filled with monumental projects sheathed in costly white marble.

Understand [ edit ]

Ashgabat's historical appellation is "The City of Love" but nowadays its modern nickname, "The City of White Marble" will seem vastly more appropriate. Saparmurat Niyazov, the president of Turkmenistan from 1985 to 2006, transformed the city from a relatively drab Soviet capital to a city of pure white marble buildings, many containing some rather overbearing symbolism (the Ministry of World Affairs building is a perfect illustration). Short of Pyongyang , Ashgabat is probably the best example of what happens when a city gets redesigned according to the vision of exactly one man, and most visitors will find themselves at first awestruck and then severely confused given the sheer similarity of most of the buildings.

Get in [ edit ]

By plane [ edit ], by rail [ edit ].

Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) runs trains to Ashgabat from Turkmenbashi and Turkmenabad via Mary .

Trains leave Turkmenbashi every second day at 19:30 and arrive in Ashgabat at 05:20 next morning or daily at 16:05, arriving in Ashgabat at 05:50 next morning. Prices from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi or Mary vary from 18 to 25 manat in a sleeper train.

Trains leave Turkmenabad at 18:00 and Mary at 00:25 daily and arrive in Ashgabat at 08:20 next morning, Another train leaves Turkmenabad at 21:55 and Mary at 02:50 every second day, arriving in Ashgabat at 09:35 next morning. There is a day train leaving Turkmenabad at 04:20 and Mary at 10:23, arriving in Ashgabat at 18:35.

By car [ edit ]

Distances to Ashgabat: Almaty in Kazakhstan 2120 km, Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan 1870 km, Tashkent in Uzbekistan 1290 km, Samarkand in Uzbekistan 1000 km, Shakrisyabz in Uzbekistan 1100 km, Turkmenabad 590 km, Mary 350 km, Mashhad in Iran 270 km, Dashoguz 650 km.

Get around [ edit ]

"Taxi" , by which everyone means hitchhiking is probably the best way to get around Ashgabat. Simply hold out your arm at a downward angle with two fingers extended, and a car (usually a Lada) will stop. Say where you are going. If they nod, get in, otherwise they will go on and you have to wait for the next car. Expect payment to be about US$2 per person. Hitchhiking is an entirely safe mode of transport in Turkmenistan—everyone uses it.

There are also official taxis which can be easily found in front of the arrivals hall of the airport and close to the railway station. They are safer but more expensive.

Ashgabat has a very extensive and convenient bus system. The main public transport hub is Teke Bazaar . From that place any location within the city or in its environs can be easily reached. In the modern part of the city there are air-conditioned bus stops with detailed maps of routes of every bus line departing from a stop. The cost of a single ride is 0.50 manat. The price should be paid by every passenger to the basket located close to driver's seat while getting off the bus. Alternatively a multi-ride should be presented to the driver.

See [ edit ]

Museums [ edit ].

• 37.881232 58.382318 4 Museum of Turkmen National Values ( inside the Independence Monument ), ☏ +993 12 451954 . Daily 09:00-12:30, 14:00-17:30 . In the first floor, the museum houses displays of silver jewellery for women and horses, and replicas of the golden bull- and wolf-head sculptures from Altyn Depe. US$10, 25,000 manat for photographs .  

Monuments [ edit ]

Religious sites [ edit ]

Other sites [ edit ].

• 38.000052 58.395077 15 Tolkuchka Bazaar ( 8 km north of Ashgabad, past the airport ). Sa Su 08:00-14:00 . One of Central Asia's most colourful bazaars,  

Do [ edit ]

Theatres [ edit ].

• Mollanepes Drama Theatre , Magtymguly sayoli 79 , ☏ +993 12 357463 . W-Sa 19:00 . US$0.25 .  
• Magtymguly Theatre , Shevchenko köcesi , ☏ +993 12 350564 . F-Su 19:00 . Turkmen musical performances  
• Pushkin Russian Theatre , Magtymguly sayoli 142 , ☏ +993 12 3654193 . Sa Su 19:00 . US$0.25 .  

Amusement Centers and Diversions [ edit ]

• 37.8987 58.2993 2 Alem Center . Alem meaning universe, the site boasts another record-setter for the city, as it supposedly holds the world's tallest Ferris wheel in an enclosed space. ( updated May 2022 )
• 37.9212 58.3314 4 Aşgabat Golf klub binasy , ☏ +993 63 93 88 66 . Daily 09:00-22:00 . A golf course that the 2nd president of Turkmenistan summoned Jack Nicklaus to build for his enjoyment in spite of economic hardship in the city. ( updated May 2022 )
• 38.0386 58.0488 5 Asghabat Zoo ( next to the international hippodrome ). Tu-Su 09:00-18:00 . Includes some interesting animals like camels and donkeys suited to life in the Karakum Desert and the Turkomen dog. ( updated May 2022 )

Buy [ edit ]

• 37.8939 58.3698 1 Berkarar , Ataturk St 80 ( opposite Sport Hotel/Olympic Stadium ), ☏ +993 12 46 87 87 . Daily 09:00-22:00 . A very plush and classy mall with ornate escalators; ice rink; 3rd floor mezzanine restaurants with Uzbek, Turkmen, European food; movie theater; and atrium. ( updated May 2022 )
• Tolkuchka Bazaar : 8 km north of Ashgabad, past the airport, Sa Su 08:00 to 14:00, also Th morning at a smaller scale. Buy a telpek (sheepskin) for US$10-15, a khalat (red and yellow striped robe for men) for US$15 or a typical red carpet for US$150-250. Be aware that you also need an export certificate, which you can get at the 'expert commission' behind the Carpet Museum, Görogly köcesi 5.
• 37.9286 58.37134 2 Hemdem Haly ( inside Oguzkent Hotel ), ☏ +993 65 81 13 19 . M-Sa 09:00-20:00, Su 10:00-20:00 . Carpet shop (don't forget to get your export permit at the carpet museum). ( updated May 2022 )
• 37.94163 58.38052 3 State Shopping Center Gulistan ( Russian Bazaar ), 2011 street, Azadi Street 72 ( opposite Grand Turkmen Hotel ), ☏ +993 12 92 07 28 . Daily 08:00-20:00 . Central universal market: fruit, vegetables, handcrafts, clothing.  

Eat [ edit ]

• 37.91358 58.40913 1 Hezzet Restaurant , Oguzhan Street 5/7 , ☏ +993 12 49 80 02 . Daily 10:00-23:00 . Authentic Turkmen food that you can eat seated on the ground in a yurt, or at a table, stuff like shashlik. ( updated May 2022 )
• 37.92807 58.34669 2 AlpEt Steakhouse , Rd of 9th Km ( next to Hotel Ashgabat ), ☏ +993 12 95 19 51 . Daily 08:00-23:00 . Have the steak, or just some coffee. ( updated May 2022 )
• Altyn Jam , Magtymgily sayoli 101 , ☏ +993 12 93-02-22 . European dishes and sweets.  

Drink [ edit ]

• City Pub , Alisher Navoi 54a Köçesi . ( updated May 2022 )

Cope [ edit ]

Internet [ edit ].

Internet cafes are available at some locations around town. Price is 6 TMT per hour.

• Yimpas Shopping Center
• Great Turkman Hotel
• Russian Market
• Sofitel, aka Oguz Kent, Features free WiFi in lobby and bar. (Ssd: Wireless; username: white; password: city)

Airlines [ edit ]

• Aeroflot , Turkmenistan Söwda merkazi, Magtymguly sayoli 73 , ☏ +993 12 398792 .  
• British Airways , Grand Turkmen Hotel, Görogly köcesi 71 , ☏ +993 12 510799 .  
• Lufthansa , http://www.lufthansa.com ( Main concourse, Saparmurat Turkmenbash Airport ), ☏ +993 12 510684 , +993 12 510331 .  
• Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) , Magtymguly sayoli 71 , ☏ +993 12 511838 .  
• Turkish Airlines , Ataturk Str. 82, Office A7-A8 , ☏ +993 12 46 99 01 , +993 12 23 20 59 .  
• Turkmenistan Airlines , Magtymguly sayoli 82 , ☏ +993 12 352643 , +993 12 394271 .  
• Uzbekistan Havo Yullari/Uzbekistan Airways , Main Concourse, Saparmurat Turkmenbashi Airport , ☏ +993 12 378203 .  
• Belavia , st. 2028 (Govshudova) 50/2, 4th Floor , ☏ +993 12 92 64 09 .  

Emergencies [ edit ]

Dial 01 for the fire brigade, 02 for police, 03 for ambulance. Be aware that the operators will speak Turkmen and Russian only.

Embassies and consulates [ edit ]

Medical services [ edit ].

• Central Hospital , Emre köcesi 1, ☏ +993 12 450303 or ☏ +993 12 450331 . Foreigners have to pay for their medical treatment.
• International Medical Center , Berzegi, ☏ +993 12 519006 or ☏ +993 12 519008 .
• Lechebnii Hospital , Shevchenko sayoli, ☏ +993 12 390877 .
• Dr.Arslan Nepesow , Turkembashi köcesi 124, ☏ +993 12 425250 .

Registration [ edit ]

• OVIR (State Service for the Registration of Foreign Citizens) , 2011 köcesi 57, ☏ +993 12 391337 , 09:00-13:00, 14:00-17:00. All persons entering Turkmenistan on a tourist or business visa have to register within three working days. You need three passport photos and your entry card. In most cases the tour operator that invited you will organise this for you. Persons holding transit visa are not required to register.

Go next [ edit ]

Nearby [ edit ].

• Nissa , 15 km west of Ashgabat, settlement dating back to the 2nd cent BC
• Geok Depe , 50 km west of Ashgabat, site of the final battle between troops of Turkmen and tsarist troops in 1881/84, Saparmurat Hags Mosque, erected by President Turkmenbashi
• Bakharden , 100 km West of Ashgabat, near the Kopet Dag mountains, cave with the Köw Ata Lake with hot thermal water, however, smelling of sulphur, a favorite place for excursion for people of Ashgabat at weekends.
• Nokhur , 150 km from Ashgabar in South Western Turkmenistan in the valleys of the Kopet Dag mountains. The people of Nokhur claim to be direct descendants of Macedonian warriors of Alexander the Great's times,
• Anau , 15 km south east of Ashgabat
• Altyn Depe is a settlement of the Eneolithic and Bronze Ages. It has been extensively excavated during the Soviet period. The settlement has specialised potter's quarters, evidence of a differentiation of the living quarters according to the wealth of their inhabitants and a monumental cult complex. During excavations a small golden head of a wolf and a bull were found. According to the Russian archaeologist V.M. Masson, the cult complex was dedicated to the Moon Good as in Mesopotamia. The site was abandoned in the middle of the second millennium BC.

Farther afield [ edit ]

Turkmenistan Airlines offered domestic flights to Dashogus (6 flights per day), Mary (3 flights per day), Turkmenabat (5 flights per day) and Turkmenbashi (3 flights per day), as of 2009.

Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) ( ☏ +993 12 255545 ) runs trains from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi and Turkmenabat via Mary .

Train 24 to Turkmenbashi leaves Ashgabat every second day at 20:40 and arrives at Turkmenbashi at 06:55 next morning. Train 606 leaves Ashgabat daily at 20:10, arriving in Turkmenbashi at 09:15 next morning.

Trains to Turkmenabat and Mary leave Ashabat at 07:40 daily, arriving at Mary at 17:00 and at Turkmenabat at 23:00. Train 195 leaves Ashabat daily at 17:20 and arrives at Turkmenabat at 07:35 next morning. Train 21 leaves Ashabat every second day at 22:10, and arrives at Mary at 05:25 and at Turkmenabat at 09:40 next morning.

By 4WD [ edit ]

Ashgabat is probably the best place to hire someone to take you to Darvaza . The trip requires going off-road and is probably best not left to you average Lada.

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Things to do in Ashgabat – Turkmenistan’s Strange Capital

22 Minute Read

In this article, I will recount my trip to Turkmenistan ‘s strange capital and detail some of the best things to do in Ashgabat.

Ashgabat is the capital city of Turkmenistan in Central Asia . The city, which is home to just over one million people, was raised to the ground by an earthquake in 1948 and has since been rebuilt. What is strange about the city is that much of it is made of white marble shipped in from Italy.

Table of Contents

Quick Overview of the best things to do in Ashgabat

• Independence Park – a pleasant park with monuments and statues of historic Turkmen figures.
• Giant Ruhnama – a large, kitsch sculpture of President Niyazov’s green book that even opens and closes!
• Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque – the largest mosque in Turkmenistan and also the final resting place of President Niyazov.
• National Museum – from bronze age relics to modern propaganda.
• Halk Hakydasy Memorial – a park commemorating the earthquake that levelled the city in 1948.
• Turkmenbashi Cableway – a cablecar that goes up to the Kopet Dag Mountains for stunning views of the city

Turkmenistan

Ashgabat is a very strange city in a very strange country. Turkmenistan has a repressive, authoritarian government and it ranks third from last in the press freedom index (North Korea being the last).

Satellite dishes have been banned and there is practically no internet in the country to try and stop the people from having access to free and independent news. Under former president Saparmurat Niyazov (or Turkmenbashi, leader of the Turkmen as he renamed himself) things were even worse…

Some of the things he banned include lip-syncing, dogs (because of ‘their unpleasant odour’), beards and long hair on men, pool, smoking (after he had to give up on health grounds, so did the entire country), opera, ballet, circuses and gold teeth.

Geographically the country sits in Central Asia on the old Silk Road. Iran lies a few kilometres to the South. Uzbekistan to the north, and Afghanistan to the East. The Caspian Sea and its vast oil and natural gas deposits lie to the West. The endless Karakum Desert covers almost 90% of the country.

Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan is sandwiched between the Karakum Desert to the north and the Kopet Dag mountains separating it from Iran 20km to the south. This temple to marble has to be seen to be believed.

Empty, spotless streets, vast Soviet-style apartment blocks and golden monuments to Turkmenbashi abound. There is even a giant mechanized version of his book, the Ruhnama, situated in the city that opens at certain times of the day.

The architecture is very modern due to an earthquake in 1948 that all but wiped it from the map and the city glistens in white under a scorching desert sun.

Arriving in Turkmenbashi Port

And so it was that I found myself in this strange country one hot April evening. I had arrived with a friend on the Bagtyyar, a cargo vessel that crosses the Caspian Sea from Baku in Azerbaijan to Turkmenbashi, a small port town named after the former president.

After a long and grueling time getting through customs and border security, we were eventually driven to our hotel in the Tourist Zone; a vast and empty expanse of grand hotels, but very few tourists (I think we were the only ones).

Our hotel, the Seyrana, was palatial. White marble, huge ceilings, crystal chandeliers and a huge twin room with flatscreen TV (no foreign channels), balcony overlooking the Caspian, and the odd bug (the listening type, not the crawling ones).

The bathroom was as impressive as one would expect, but as soon as I ran the taps I was horrified at the bright orange water gushing forth. The next morning I awoke to expletive-laden shouts coming from the bathroom as my friend was blasted with orange water in the shower, which needless to say I found highly amusing.

After a few hours’ sleep, we went down to breakfast in the large dining hall. A buffet counter lined one of the walls, but was empty of food. An elderly waitress came and asked if we were ready to eat and went off to prepare our breakfast.

The meal was sumptuous. Eggs, cheese, bread and cucumber, all washed down with piping hot coffee, but it was unnerving being the only two people in such a grand hotel. It had the vague air of Fawlty Towers about it, but with a menacing undercurrent.

Turkmenbashi to Ashgabat

Once we finished breakfast, we were picked up by our driver and began the six-hour journey to the country’s capital, Ashgabat. We first stopped at the bazaar to change money as the driver would get a better rate on the black market than in the banks.

As soon as we left the coast with the sun casting its glare across the calm waters, the land changed into an arid desert. Camels ambled by the roadside and nothing but sand and scrub could be seen for miles in any direction.

We had a guide with us who gave us a commentary on all the places we passed and we listened with interest as he pointed out the area where his tribe came from.

As we got nearer to the capital, the Kopet Dag Mountains started to rise up to the South and these form the natural land barrier between Turkmenistan and Iran. I was idly taking pictures out the window of a strange wire fence running along one of the ridges and then clicked that it was the actual border and quickly pulled my camera in.

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, Ashgabat

Before going to our hotel we stopped in Gypjak, a suburb of Ashgabat, to have a look at the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque. A massive monolith of marble and gold trim with minarets stretching to the heavens, splendid in the afternoon sun.

This mosque has caused a lot of controversy as built into the walls are scriptures from not only the Koran but the Ruhnama too, Niyazov’s little green book. This especially angered the Saudi’s who see it as sacrilege that the Ruhnama is placed with equal weight as the Koran.

Our guide informed us that the capacity is for 20,000 people. It was truly staggering. Inside carpets lined the floor and the central dome towered above us. A handful of worshipers were praying at the front, bent down in prostration and subservience to their imaginary friend in the sky.

The city of Ashgabat

It was a short ride to our hotel on the top of a hill overlooking the city and mountains. The Bagt Koshgi Hotel is a strange edifice indeed. A huge globe is trapped within a three-dimensional eight-pointed star and underneath is the hotel, another monstrosity of marble.

Turkmenistan is the number one importer of European marble in the world, and you can certainly see why – the city is made of nothing else. All the old soviet tower blocks are being or have been pulled down and replaced with ornate temples to the new order of things.

Inside the hotel, female workers dressed in traditional clothing busied themselves behind the reception desk and a man in a suit was sitting casually observing us from a nearby sofa. The women looked stylish in their brightly coloured dress, with piercing brown eyes and long dark hair.

We left our passports with reception and noted another man in a suit loitering in the lobby, looking on in interest. We had seen the same in the hotel in Turkmenbashi and wondered quietly if they were secret policemen keeping tabs on the strange-looking foreigners.

The room was as grand as the Seyrana if a little smaller, though at least the water in the bathroom was not orange this time.

We decided against hitting the town as we were tired from all the travelling over the last few days and opted instead to share a bottle of vodka in the room to toast reaching Turkmenistan, arguably the most important destination on our trip.

A Tour of Ashgabat

The next day we rose early and tucked into another good breakfast of eggs, ham, bread and coffee. We were due to hit the road at 3 pm for our journey across the desert to Darvaza and the Door to Hell.

But before that we needed to register our presence in the country and drop our passports off at the tourist agency in downtown Ashgabat. This would be combined with a brief sightseeing tour of the city.

We were picked up at 10 am and taken to the National Museum. We decided against paying the ten dollar entrance fee and had a wander around the grounds. Next, we went to the Owadan Tourism office to hand in our passports and then continued our drive through the city.

There were scarcely any cars on the road or people about. No mothers with pushchairs, or people taking a stroll on this sunny morning. No workers save for policeman and street cleaners with their strange bright blue robes; faces obscured by a headdress to shield against the strong sun.

We certainly didn’t see any other tourists about, not even at the main sites which was truly bizarre. I’ve never seen such an empty city, let alone a capital. What was also strange was the lack of shops. All you could see was white marble buildings and no other obvious signs of habitation.

Independence Park

We drove on to Independence Park, 2km of monuments and dictator kitsch in the centre of Ashgabat. Again, empty save for the cleaners and soldiers guarding the place.

We had to be very careful about where we could take photos. All the usual places a tourist would want to photograph are strictly off-limits and Turkmenistan is not the sort of place where you want to break the rules.

We would constantly check with our driver if it was okay to photograph this or that. As long as we avoided soldiers, the police and all government buildings we were told we would be okay. The problem is the city mostly consists of government buildings, soldiers and police.

The park was pleasant enough. Spotlessly clean and a few trees and shrubs were dotted around the gold and marble monuments and ornamental fountains. Statues of proud Turkmen stood defiantly clutching weapons, the gold glinting strongly in the sunlight.

We made our way to the other side of the park and were greeted by a giant statue of the Ruhnama, Niyazov’s lengthy tome to the nation that is required reading in all schools. A mixture of folk poems, moral guidance and autobiography, it was first released in 2001 and reissued again in 2004.

Halk Hakydasy Memorial Park, Ashgabat

We then moved on to the memorial park dedicated to the victims of the 1948 earthquake that raised the city to the ground. The park was very similar to those found in ex-soviet cities, with square-jawed soldiers peering out from large walls in the soviet-realist style.

An enormous bullock stood atop a monolith with a golden baby clutching a globe, and an eternal flame burned, flanked by two rigid soldiers. I asked one of them if it was okay to take photographs and he tersely nodded in agreement.

By now the sun was high in the sky and I could feel my skin start to burn. It must have been 35c and we decided to escape the sun and head back to the hotel, which we could see perched on the hilltop across a small valley. It was now lunchtime and we needed to pack and be ready by 3pm for our desert adventure at Darvaza.

Read more about Turkmenistan

Useful Information

By far the best way to see Turkmenistan is through an independent tour, which I would never normally recommend.

It takes out a lot of the hassle but still leaves you with a lot of the freedom associated with independent travel. Young Pioneer Tours offer a great selection of packages for ‘people who don’t really don’t like tours’. Check out their Turkmenistan page here for more information.

Citizens of almost every country require a valid visa to enter Turkmenistan. Apply in your home country as applying on the road is not recommended.

If you apply for a tourist visa you must first obtain a Letter of Invitation (LOI) which can only be applied for by state-aligned tourist agencies. We used Owadan Tourism but other companies include Young Pioneer Tours and Indy Guide .

To make a stronger case for your visa approval, it is worth providing information on the route you are travelling. If you are exploring the region and can provide details of onward travel it will help your case. If you are simply visiting Turkmenistan on its own as a tourist destination the chances of obtaining a visa are slim.

Combine your trip with other places on the Silk Road. Once the LOI has been approved (takes around two weeks) getting your visa is just a formality.

Take the LOI to your Turkmenistan embassy along with the completed application form (download here), passport and fee (we paid around 60 pounds in London). Our VISAs took 10 working days, but there is also an express three-day service for double the price.

Entry Tax: An entry tax of $14 per person is payable upon entering Turkmenistan.

Getting to Turkmenistan

Air: Flights to Saparmurat Turkmenbashi Airport depart from a limited number of European airports including Frankfurt, Istanbul, London and Moscow. The airport has links to other central Asian cities such as Almaty in Kazakhstan and Urumqi in China.

Land: There are border crossings with Afghanistan, Iran, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. You will need to take a taxi, bus or marshrutka to the border. From there you can walk across.

We left Turkmenistan at the Dagosuz border crossing close to Urgench. Dagosuz railway station has links to Bukhara, Khiva, Samarkand , and Tashkent).

Sea: There is a crossing from Baku in Azerbaijan to Turkmenbashi in the west of Turkmenistan. There are no passenger ferries but it is possible to take one of the cargo vessels plying this route.

Think carefully before opting for this as delays are frequent. This could mean that your visa expires before you even get to Turkmenistan. We had two extra days built into our tour to cover such delays. However, it’s not been unheard of that a vessel could be waiting to dock for up to six days.

In the end our boat was only delayed by half a day and we were more or less on schedule. Our ticket for a seat in the passenger lounge cost $50 (cabin $90). There are no services on board so make sure you stock up with enough food and water to last the duration and possible delays.  Aside from the uncertainties, this is by far the most rewarding way to arrive in (or leave) Turkmenistan.

About the author: Steve Rohan is a writer from Essex, England. He has traveled to over 60 countries, lived in Armenia, China and Hong Kong, and is now living the digital nomad life on the road.

Steve prefers “slow travel” and has covered much of the world by train, bus and boat. He has been interviewed multiple times by the BBC and recently featured in the documentary Scariest Places in the World . See the About page for more info.

Where I am now: Yerevan, Armenia 🇦🇲

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Ashgabat, Turkmenistan | Turkmenistan Travel Guide

By Koryo Tours

A guide to Turkmenistan's Ashghabat; all you need to know about visiting Ashghabat in Turkmenistan!

Our introduction to Ashgabat, Turkmenistan. We have compiled this Ashgabat Guide together from our experience to provide you with all the info you need when visiting Ashgabat. Where to stay in Ashgabat? How to visit Asghabata? Where are the best places to eat in Ashgabat? And much more! 

Feel free to skip to the relevant chapter below to answer all your questions on Ashgabat. 

Introduction Ashgabat History Ashgabat City Places to See in Ashgabat Where to Eat in Ashgabat

Updated March 2024. 

Introduction

Pre 1991, Ashgabat was often spelt Ashkhabad in English. This is a transliteration of the Russian form.

From 1919 until 1927, the city was named Poltoratsk after the local revolutionary, Pavel Gerasimovich Poltoratskiy. 

The name Ashgabat means "city of love" or "city of devotion" in modern Persian. Although for many it can be best described as Pyongyang meets Las Vegas . 

At face value, this may be true. However, there is much more than meets the eye.

As with many of the central Asian capitals, Ashgabat is still a relatively young city. 

Ashgabat History

The following explores the recent history of Ashgabat until the present day. 

It was founded in 1881 as a fortified settlement. Its foundations were built upon the ancient city of Konjikala.

Konjikala grew from a small wine-producing village in the 2 nd century into a Silk Road hub. Later,  Ashgabat was levelled by an earthquake continuing after its rebuild until the Mongol hordes tore through the region in the 13 th century. 

It limped on as a small village until the Russian advance in the 19 th century. 

Once ceded to the Russian empire, the Russians began to develop the area and Ashgabat once again grew.

It emerged as a city with European-style buildings, shops and hotels. 

The fortunes were again to change influenced by events many miles away. 

During the Russian Revolution of 1917, a mixture of forces fighting against the Bolsheviks briefly captured Ashgabat. This made it part of the state of Transcaspia along with greater Turkmenistan.

This wasn’t to last.

Eventually in 1919, after much fighting, Turkmenistan finally became part of the Soviet Union. 

In 1927, the name Ashgabat was restored and the city experienced its largest period of growth. Large-scale industrialization moved in and the Turkmen resources of oil and gas were mined. 

All the while, it experienced tight political controls, and the country remained closed not only to the outside world but the populace of the Soviet Union. 

The growth was not to last. The country experienced another history-defining event in the form of a 7.3 magnitude earthquake. 

The story has been told many times. 

At 1:12 in the morning on 6 October 1948, in the small village of Gara-Gaudan just 25 kilometres from the capital, a huge earthquake shook the land. 

As many of the city residents were asleep, the death toll was huge. The earthquake killed around 110–176,000. Approximately ⅔ of the population of Ashgabat.

Furthermore, it has been estimated that 90% of the city's buildings were destroyed.

As Soviet censorship was so strict, most in the outside world did not know how serious this disaster was. To help recovery, large numbers of Soviet soldiers were ploughed into the area remaining and reconstruction followed. 

In much of Ashgabat, the typical grey soviet architecture replaced the typical brick buildings of the area. 

1991: The Golden Era

As the Soviet Union collapsed, Turkmenistan gained its independence in October 1991.

Saparmurat Atayevich Niyazov, the former Chairman of the Supreme Soviet of the Turkmen SSR, took the mantel of power cementing his position as the leader of the country. During the Turkmenistani presidential elections of 1992, he was the only candidate.

A year into his presidency, Niyazov declared himself Turkmenbashi; the leader of all Turkmen.

This led to the golden period as money from the country's resources was pumped back into the country's construction. This led to the mobilisation of Ashgabat as many of the old Soviet apartment blocks were torn down and over time replaced by modern slick marbled structures. 

Many of the Soviet apartment blocks that remained were eventually covered in pseudo-marble.  

As if this was not enough, monuments and statues began to fill the parks, avenues and available land. 

These grandiose structures extolled the achievements of the new leader, covering moments from his life, writings and god-like status. 

Since the death of Niyazov, the construction has continued under the leadership of the country’s current leader Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow. New stadiums, palace-like shopping malls, and even the falcon-shaped airport have all been constructed in recent years. 

Ashgabat City

A majority will either arrive in Ashgabat via the airport or by road. There are train connections but the train tends to be slow and not as reliable as the other links.

When entering Ashgabat, you’re first met by the vast expanse of the desert. This shouldn’t come as a big surprise, as over 70% of the country is covered by the Kara-Kum desert. 

As Ashgabat approaches and comes into view, the cloud-like Kopet-Dag mountain range rises from behind.

This helps to enhance the crisp white lines of the city buildings. 

Ashgabat is home to around 1 million people. However, Ashgabat is large with only the mountains to the south curbing its growth. 

Since the earthquake of 1948, building practices have also been adapted to allow for a future quake. When a building is constructed, the height of the building must be kept clear around it. 

This practice means not only a sprawling city but wide open spaces, large avenues and streets. 

To add to this, it is marbled. So heavily marbled that in 2013 it made it into the Guinness Book of Records as the world's highest concentration of white marble buildings within a city.

With its mix of architecture strong white lines oversized palaces and government buildings, it’s like arriving at a set for a science fiction movie.

Getting Around

Ashgabat is a great city for walking.

However, be prepared as Ashgabat is far-reaching and walks can be long. 

If you are out and about and decide you’ve had enough and want to return to base, you can always hire a local driver who will transport you on your way for a small fee. 

Places to See in Ashgabat

The following is a list of highlights of Ashghabat.

Oguzkhan Presidential Palace

This is the official presidential headquarters. A place so big it’s almost beyond belief. 

The gates themselves are impressive as there so big a man can squeeze between the bars.

Unfortunately, photos are not allowed in this area. So a walk past the entrance needs to be committed to memory which isn’t difficult with its grand architecture and stunning domed roofs. 

Ruhyýet Palace

This is a place for official state events, forums, meetings, inaugurations etc. It is only rivalled by the Oguzkhan. Another grand building that can only be viewed at a distance. Nevertheless, it’s well worth the walk just to get an idea of the scale. 

Wedding Palace

As the name suggests, it is the location where locals go to register their wedding and is normally incorporated as part of a larger celebration.

Located just outside Ashgabat, it’s another grand building but well worth the journey. 

Turkmen Museum of Fine Arts

This museum can be a little difficult to find but worth the visit.

There are around 6,000 works in its collection filling a palatial-style building. It is a fascinating visit. 

Don’t visit expecting famous pieces, however, but the museum does house works by Turkmen, Russian and foreign artists.  

Another bonus is the views out to the presidential palace which looks stunning from the second floor.  

Turkmen Carpet Museum

This is known by many Turkmens as the leading authority on the nation’s carpets. 

If you’re interested or need to know anything about carpets this is the place to go. 

Opened in 1994, it has the largest collection of Turkmen carpets including a rich collection ranging from medieval times through to the 20th century.

Another reason for visiting is to catch another of Turkmenistan’s entrance into the Guinness World Records. It’s the largest hand-woven carpet in the world a carpet woven to celebrate 10 years of Turkmen independence from the Soviet Union. 

Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center

If you’re searching for more record-holding entrants, then this is a stop you should make.

A little bizarre but worth the visit. The Entertainment Centre entry in the Guinness World Records is the world's tallest Ferris wheel in an enclosed space. If you want to see some locals here, visit in the evening or at weekends. 

Berkarar Shopping Mall

For Shopping, people-watching or Western comfort food this is a great stop. Especially during the toasty summer months. 

Visit the Kamil supermarket on the basement floor for all your needs. 

The top floor has a modern entertainment system with arcade games and even a small indoor roller coaster. 

Also on the top floor, you can find a real mix of restaurants from Burger joints to local eats.

Tekke Bazaar

Walk through this real local slice of life. A true local market very popular amongst local people for shopping. 

On weekends, there are also local booksellers in the park opposite selling a selection of second-hand books.

If you’re lucky you may be able to pick up a copy of the Ruhnama . The book written by Saparmurat Niyazov the president of Turkmenistan. 

Niyazov famously said, "A person that reads Ruhnama three times becomes smart, and after it, he will go straight to heaven".

Russian Bazaar

Located in the very centre of town, this covered bazaar is where you can go to buy almost everything you may need in daily life. Fruit & nuts, cables & chargers, sweets, kimchi, baked goods, souvenirs, and so on. 

Nearby is also the Alty Asyr Shopping Centre which is a good place to buy cotton goods (tracksuits, towels, bedsheets, etc all made from local cotton, and all very cheap).

Not so much of a hit with the locals these days, so do not be surprised if there are few other shoppers.

Ashgabat Train station

Originally built in 1888, the first railway station was destroyed in the earthquake of 1948 along with much of Ashgabat. 

A new station was built shortly after in 1950. Although this was remodelled in 2009 taking on its now grand form crowned by the eight-pointed star (Rub El Hizb).

Tolkuchka Bazaar

The nation’s largest and most famous market. It is outside Ashgabat and home to various sections selling household goods, clothes, the famous Turkmen carpets , camels & other animals, and much more! 

Since its relocation and rebuild it’s so vast it no longer has that crowded feel, although a visit here is still very much worthwhile to see the variety of its wares and the sheer scale. 

Where to Eat in Ashgabat

Local BBQ, European and Russian. 

One of my favourite laid-back picks for Ashgabat, prices are good and it’s centrally located. 

This is a great outdoor option, although it can be busy on weekends. The menu is in English and Turkmen making choosing a lot easier. Great for BBQ as food is cooked on-site and easily washed down with the local ZIP beer. 

If travelling in a larger group, do expect a delay in service. 

There are vegetarian options although vegans may have a tougher time.

Ammar Café

European and Asian. 

Prices are a little higher than similar options, but a great pick for vegetarians, vegans and carnivores alike. 

It’s a little further from the city centre, but well worth the journey.

Predominantly indoor eating with some outdoor seating. 

The restaurant may be small but it has a light airy feel with good customer service. 

It’s also a good stop for those needing a coffee fix during the day.

Uzum Café

French, European and Turkish.

A newer choice on the list, and another choice for vegetarians, vegans, and meat-eaters. 

It’s located in the older area of the city making for an enjoyable walk predominantly indoors with a few tables outside. 

The menu has a nice selection although on busier days some choices may be limited. 

There is no alcohol served here but visit for the meticulously presented food. 

Altyn Shafran

Central Asian and European

This is located next to the Uzum Café, another mixed menu especially great for drinks and food.

A little bizarre in its decor part sports bar, part library with a real ecliptic feel, the staff are friendly and service is relatively quick, offering everything from salads to local bites. 

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History of Ashgabat: Time of big changes

On the threshold of the 140th anniversary of the capital of Turkmenistan, it is worth to look back and recollect from what Ashgabat began, what forestalled its appearance and what stages of history left traces in its current image. This city, which is loved by all generation of Ashgabat citizens, has its unique image these days as well being under dynamic development, it has the same uniqueness like it had in the past. The architectural historian Ruslan Muradov continue speaking about this. The first part of the story is under this  link .

First and further, Civil War in Russia have paralyzed Ashgabat almost for ten years. Its population has been significantly reduced and the construction has not be carried out at all. Social and political turmoil in life of the city has started in 19117 after abolishment of the Russian Empire during February Revolution and collapse of all government institutes followed after the Revolution. Mass public disorders have started in the conditions of severe economic crisis and growing social tension. Revolutionary forces have been acting together with representatives of the Provisional Government of Alexander Kerensky, national movement of Turkmen people for their independence has started.

On November 22, 1917, small group of Bolsheviks has managed to take over the power in Ashgabat but their policy has caused the strike of Russian workers and Turkmens of Askhabad County, which started on June 17, 1918. Despite the attempts of the Bolsheviks to impose a military siege in the city, they were replaced after cruel street fights on the streets by the Provisional Government of the Caspian Region supported by Great Britain, which has already started the intervention on August. However, the success of the Red Army on the main fronts of the Civil War, which covered entire former empire, has made the British to withdraw their troops in April 1919 and the city, which was still held by the White Government, was surrendered without combat to advancing divisions of the Red Army.

New authorities have immediately renamed the city to Poltoratsky, in honor of one local Bolsheviks Pavel Poltoratsky, who was killed in summer of 1918 in Merv. Very soon, the name of the city was shorten to Poltoratsk. The city remained as administrative center of the Caspian Region, which renamed to Turkmen Region in 1921.

Isolated from the center of Russia under conditions of so-called military communism, Poltoratsk was in big demand of essential supplies. Foreign trades were broken, all attempts to restore the activity of local industrial facilities ended up only in construction of glass factory. The city has started to be restored from devastation only in 1922. The trade has been restoring slowly, cooperation has started to be developed. Central part of former Askhabad has lost its aristocratic luxury, facades of public buildings have been changed by red banners with various slogans and names of Soviet organizations.

New stage of development of city has started only after new Turkmen Republic, which has been founded in the result of disengagement of Central Asia, have been included to the Soviet Union and Pltoratsk have been announced its capital in 1925.

Having received new status, the city has started to come out of the freeze, which was caused by the consequences of recent war. All remained private facilities except living have been nationalized, their reconstruction has been started all around the city. The main buildings in the central part of the city have been occupied by the government and educational facilities. Churches and mosques have been closed and used for other needs. The industry has been restored, the population has started to come. The composition of the population was changing as former transit hub, through which active trade with Persia has been carried out, has turned into more closed socialistic city oriented to industrialization.

In 1927, it was decided to return old names of Poltoratsk and other settlements, which were renamed, “taking into consideration, - as relative Resolution said, - that renaming was not popular among local population and people continue calling the above-mentioned places by old names”. Thus, Ashgabat has received back its original name. By this time, it was already quite a developed city. In 1930, the streets have been paved with asphalt. Earlier, the buses have replaced horse-drawn transport. The trees have grown restoring and extending previous green pool. Water provision has been improved. For this purpose, water lines have been laid to the city from Bagir’s water sources and Gyami Qanat, Ashgabat Creek has be run through pipeline.

Industrial facilities, which determined economic profile of Ashgabat and its orientation to light, food, construction and metal-processing industry, have been opened during 1927 – 1937. Personal living construction was encouraged, in which result, the territory of the city has been increased almost two times for 10 years. Despite that Ashgabat has experienced strong earthquake in 1927, which did not caused victims and destructions of big number of buildings, the construction was carried out without taking into account seismic activity until 1934. However, even those measures, which were taken after approval of special project and construction standards, was not sufficient enough as it was found out later. On this background, the complex of textile factory, which was built in 1925 – 1929 under the leadership of outstanding Russian scientist in the sphere of civil engineering, Professor Vsevolod Keldysh, is worth to be highlighted. The method of calculation of super strong ferro concrete structures developed by him was applied in this project and successfully withstood serious ordeal – the earthquake in 1948.

In the 30s, the constructivism has been replaced with simplified classics. Nowadays, remarkable constructions of Ashgabat bear the whole number of symbols, which have to reflect the features of new life and relation with traditions in its image. The Lenin’s Monument (Author Alexander Karelin, 1924 – 1927), which was covered with polychrome majolica tiles, which imitate the patterns of Turkmen carpet, in the public garden on the place of former Gymnasium Square was one of the first and brightest facilities of this kind. Following ascetic buildings of new lifestyle and cultural palaces, more monumental and presentable administrative buildings, House of Councils Hotel, pedagogic institute, new railway stations, Music College have appeared. All-union contest for the best project of the State Theatre, which was announced in 1934, in which biggest Soviet architects of those times Academics Alexey Tschusev, Ivan Fomin, Vladimir Tschuko as well as their younger colleagues, was one of important events in architectural history of Ashgabat.

During the Great Patriotic War, Ashgabat was deep behind the enemy lines but thousands of city’s residents went to the front. Armory and food for support of the army during the Battle of Caucasus went by the railway through Turkmen capital from Siberia and Central Asia. In addition, number of facilities in Ashgabat has changed their profile to produce military supplies. In addition, number of facilities and institutions have been evacuated to the city from the war zone (in particular, Moscow State University, Kiev Film Studio), around 8,000 refugees have come to Ashgabat and have been accommodated in houses of Ashgabat’s residents.

There were many outstanding people who came to Ashgabat by fortune, who influenced cultural life of the city and played significant role in education of younger generation of national art and cultural personnel. Future academic and Nobel Peace Prize Laureate Andrey Sakharov has started his studies in thermonuclear physics in this place. Russian writer Yuri Olesha has been working efficiently with Ashgabat’s Pushkin Theatre, Ukrainian movie director Mark Donskoy has produced his famous movie “Raduga” (Rainbow), which was awarded with Oskar Award by American Movie Academy in nomination of the Best Foreign Movie of the Year. Academic, neurosurgeon and Sanskrit scholar Boris Smirnov, who stayed to live in Ashgabat, has been translating philosophic texts of ancient Indian epic of Mahabharata to Russian language. This is only the most famous names.

The raise of construction activity has been observed in Ashgabat, which looked ather prosperous comparing with the cities destroyed by the war in European part of the country, in the first years after the war. Construction of new industrial buildings, education facilities, hospitals and other socially oriented objects was planned. Government living construction was expanding. However, sudden natural disaster has interrupted this work causing irreversible damage to the city.

Category's latest posts

Get in [ edit ]

By plane [ edit ].

Ashgabat is served by the brand-new Oguz Han International Airport. Taxi drivers will want 20 manat for the short trip into town; 10 manat is a more reasonable price.

The main operator is the international carrier Turkmenistan Airlines [1] , which operates international flights from Abu Dhabi / United Arab Emirates on Fri and Sun, from Almaty / Kazakhstan on Sat, from Amritsar / India on Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun, from Birmingham / United Kingdom on Thu, Fri and Sun, from Delhi / India on Sat and Sun, from Dubai / United Arab Emirates on Tue, from Frankfurt / Germany on Tue, Sat and Sun, from Istanbul / Turkey on Mon, Tue, Wed and Sat, from Kiev / Ukraine on Sat, from London / United Kingdom on Tue and Sat, from Moscow / Russia from Mon to Sun and from Tashkent / Uzbekistan on Tue., from Bangkok/Thailand, 4 times a week, from Istanbul/Turkey, 12 times a week, from Delhi, 3 times a week, from St. Petersburg/Russia, 2 times a week. International flights are operated by B-737 or B-757 aircraft.

Domestic destinations include Dashogus (6 flights per day), Mary (3 flights per day), Turkmenabat (5 flights per day) and Turkmenbashi (3 flights per day). Domestic flights are very cheap due to subsidies.

Other airlines include FlyDubai to Dubai (5 times a week), Lufthansa to Frankfurt / Germany , 4 times a week (via Baku / Azerbaijan ), Turkish Airlines to Istanbul / Turkey (twice a day) and S7 Airlines to Moscow (5 times per week).

By rail [ edit ]

Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) runs trains to Ashgabat from Turkmenbashi and Turkmenabad via Mary .

Trains leave Turkmenbashi every second day at 7.30 pm and arrive in Ashgabat at 5.20 am next morning or daily at 4.05 pm, arriving in Ashgabat at 5.50 am next morning.

Trains leave Turkmenabad at 6 pm and Mary at 0.25 am daily and arrive in Ashgabat at 8.20 am next morning, Another train leaves Turkmenabad at 9.55 pm and and Mary at 2.50 am every second day, arriving in Ashgabat at 9.35 am next morning. There is a day train leaving Turkmenabad at 4.20 am and Mary at 10.23 am, arriving in Ashgabat at 6.35 pm.

By car [ edit ]

Distances to Ashgabat: Almaty in Kazakhstan 2120 km, Bishkek in Kyrgyztan 1870 km, Tashkent in Uzbekistan 1290 km, Samarkand in Uzbekistan 1000 km, Shakrisabz in Uzbekistan 1100 km, Turkmenabad 590 km, Mary 350 km, Mashhad in Iran 270 km, Dashgovuz 650 km,

Get around [ edit ]

Unofficial taxis are everywhere. Just stick out your right arm, and see who stops.

The bus system in Ashgbat is fairly good, and is only about 0.4 manat per person. Pay when you get off the bus. It is easiest to give the driver 1 manat and let him give you change, instead of trying to figure out exact fare (and you probably will not have coins, anyways, since they are worth so little). There are white marble bus stops (many with shade and some with air conditioning) all through the town. Some of the bus stations have route maps at the stations. The bus is a good option if you are on the outskirts of town (e.g., the giant indoor Ferris wheel at Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center or the Palace of Knowledge) and no taxis stop. Take any bus in the direction toward town, and get off when you get closer to a busy city street and take a taxi to wherever you are going.

• Nissa , 15 km West of Ashgabat, settlement dating back to the 2nd cent BC
• Geok Depe , 50 km West of Ashgabat, site of the final battle between troups of Turmen and tsarist troops in 1881/84, Saparmurat Hags Mosque, erected by President Turkmenbashi
• Bakharden , 100 km West of Ashgabat, near the Kopet Dag mountains, cave with the Köw Ata Lake with hot thermal water, however, smelling of sulphur, a favorite place for excursion for people of Ashgabat at weekends.
• Nokhur , 150 km from Ashgabar in South Western Turkmenistan in the valleys of the Kopet Dag mountains. The people of Nokhur claim to be direct descendants of Macedonian warriors of Alexander the Great's times,
• Anau , 15 km South East of Ashgabat
• Altyn Depe is a settlement of the Eneolithic and Bronze Ages. It has been extensively excavated during the Soviet period. The settlement has specialised potter's quarters, evidence of a differentiation of the living quarters according to the wealth of their inhabitants and a monumental cult complex. During excavations a small golden head of a wolf and a bull were found. According to the Russian archaeologist V.M.Masson, the cult complex was dedicated to the Moon Good as in Mesopotamia. The site was abandonned in the middle of the second millenium BC.

See [ edit ]

• White marble . The biggest attraction in Ashagbat is the many, many white marble buildings . Many of these are government ministries and can't be entered, so a tour around the city is a great way to take it in. Bus Number 20 is a good bet. It passes a number of buildings before turning around in the desert outside the city. 20 tenne .
• Turkmenbashi Cableway , Kopet Dag ( south of the National Museum ). 9am to 10pm . Cable car, opened in 2006, climbing up to 1290 meters, offering spectacular views over the city with the desert in the background. Fully operational and 2 manat per person in July 2016. Cafe at the top had only drinks and ice cream in July 2016. $10 .
• Tolkuchka Bazaar , ( 8 km north of Ashgabad, past the airport ). Satt, Sun 8am to 2pm . one of Central Asia's most colourful bazaars,
• National Museum , Archabil sayoli 30 ( in front of the Kopet Dag ), ☎ 454954 . 9am to 5pm . An interesting, if very expensive museum. For foreign visitors, Hall 1's presentation of post-independent Turkmenistan is probably of the most interest. The delusions of absolute power are full effect in the strange gifts and terrible photoshopped images. Elsewhere more serious work is presented on Turkmenistan's past: Hall 2 focuses on Bronze Age artifacts while Hall 3 shows items taken from the Nissa site just outside of Ashgabat. Hall 4 shows a medieval model of Merv, along with exhibits on Konye Urgench and Anau. Hall 5 and 6 show ancient weapons and jewelry, while a huge carpet dominates Hall 7. $10 per section or $30 for the whole museum .
• Museum of Fine Arts , ( west of the Palace of Justice ), ☎ 351566 . Wed to Mon 9am to 6pm . The Central Hall has a large picture of President Niyazov Abundance of the Harvest . In the Independence Hall the heroic figures of the nation (Oguz Han, Togrul Beg, Alp Arslan and the poet Seydi) are shown. The museum also contains a reconstruction of the dragen freeze of the mosque of Arnau and exhibitions of Turkmen paitings before and after 1950. The first floor is devoted to Russian paintings from the 19th century and to European paintings, including minor works by Tiepolo and Poussin. US$ 10 .
• Turkmen Carpet Museum , 5 Georogly köcesi , ☎ 398879 . Mon to Fri 10am to 1pm., 2 to 6 pm, . The museum houses antique carpets of the 18th and 19th centuries and modern carpets from all parts of the country. There is a nearly 200 square meters carpet which was intended as curtain of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, but proved too heavy. The pride of the museum is the largest hand-woven carpet in the world, as certified by the Guinness Book of Records. It covers 300 square meters and was woven by 40 carpet makers on the occasion of the 10th anniversary of Turkmenistan's independence. $20/72TMT .
• Turkmenistan Independence Park , ( take bus 16 or 34 from the city center ). The Park covers an area 2 km long and 1 km wide. It contains monuments of famous people of Turkmen history: the founder of the Seljuk dynasty Seljuk Beg , the founder of the Turkmen people Oguz Han , the Turkmen poet Magtymguly , the Seljuk leader Sultan Sanjar , the Turkmen warrior Georogly the Seljuk rulers Alp Arslan and Malik Shah , the 18th century leader of the Ahal Tekkes Keymir Kor , the poets Zelilli and Sydi , the leader of the White Sheep confederation Uzyn Hasan , the father of the founder of the Ottoman Empire Ertogul Gazy , the Turkmen commander and poet Bairam Han , the poets Molianepes and Mataji , the Turkmen leader Gara Yusup , the Seljuk ruler Togrul Beg , the spiritual leader Gorkut Ata and the poet Kemine .
• Ashgabat Flagpole , ( near the National Museum ). Erected in 2008, this large flag is now the fourth-largest in the world. If slightly smaller than the ones present in Baku , Pyongyang and Dushanbe , the 133 meter structure is still impressive. Free. .
• Museum of Turkmen National Values , ☎ 451954 . 9am to 12,30 pm, 2 to 5,30 pm, daily . In the first floor, the Museum houses displays of silver jewelry for women and horses, and replicas of the golden bull- and wolf-head sculptures from Altyn Depe. $10 .
• Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center ( Giant Indoor Ferris Wheel ). Fri-Sun Only . This is a beautiful building and has the world record for the largest indoor Ferris wheel. There are also coin-operated machines and bumper cars inside. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alem_Cultural_and_Entertainment_Center about 5 manat per person .
• World of Turkmenbashi Tales . This has some neat animatronics and shows of Turkmen fairy tales inside, as well as various amusement park rides (bumper cars, flying carpet, horse race, Disney knock-offs) outside. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_of_Turkmenbashi_Tales 0.60 manat per ride ticket - 6 manat per person will let you see everything .
• Palace of Knowledge ( Turkmenbashi Museum ), Across from south side of Independence Monument . There is a library, a threate, and the Turkmenbashi Museum, which seems to be collection of the gifts to, and souvenirs and other knick-knacks of Turkmenbashi. The building, both inside and out, is beautiful. Some of the exhibits are very ornate. 10 USD or 35 manat per foreigner (cheaper for Turkmen) .

Do [ edit ]

Theatres [ edit ].

• Mollanepes Drama Theatre , Magtymguly sayoli 79 , ☎ 357463 . Wes to Sat 7pm . US$ 0,25 .
• Magtymguly Theatre , Shevchenko köcesi , ☎ 350564 . Fri to Sun 7pm . Turkmen musical performances
• Pushkin Russian Theatre , Magtymguly sayoli 142 , ☎ 3654193 . Sat, SUn 7pm . US$ 0,25 .

All theatres seem to be closed in the summer, perhaps for vacation.

Buy [ edit ]

• Tolkuchka Bazaar : 8 km north of Ashgabad, past the airport, Sat, Sun 8am to 2pm, also Thu morning on a smaller scale. Buy a telpek (sheepskin) for US$ 10 to 15, a khalat (red and yellow striped robe for men) for US$ 15 or a typical red carpet for US$ 150 to 250. Be aware that you also need an export certificate, which you can get at the 'expert commission' behind the Carpet Museum, Görogly köcesi 5.
• Carpet Shop , Görogly köcesi 5, east of the Carpet Museum, run by the government.
• Gulistan market ( Russian bazaar ), ul. M. Kosaev ( opposite Grand Turkmen Hotel ). 9 a.m. to dusk . A traditional Central Asian bazaar stocked with fruit, vegetables, handicrafts and cheap imported clothing. Despite photos seen online of foreign dignitaries visiting, photos are strongly discouraged. There are several shops which sell souvenirs, such as wool hats. Ask shopkeepers here to change money at the unofficial rate (around 5.25 manat per dollar in July 2016). 8PM .
• Berkarar Mall , Atatürk köçesi , ☎ +993 12 46-88-88 , [x] . 9-23 . This is the place to go for a big western-style mall now that Yimpas is closed. Large grocery store on ground floor, food court on 3rd with plenty of choices. Several coffee shops throughout mall.
• Teke Bazaar . Very similar to the Russian Bazaar but slightly larger. ( 37.943379 , 58.370482 )

Eat [ edit ]

• Asuda Nusay , Alishera Navoi Köcesi 54a , ☎ 352288 . speciality: sturgeon from the Caspian Sea
• Altyn Jam , Magtymgily sayoli 101 , ☎ 396850 . European dishes and sweets
• Merdem , Oguzhan St. 1/7 , ☎ +9931249 80 02 , [x] . 9-23 .
• Euphoria , O.Kulieva str. 33, First Floor , ☎ +99312 225505 , [x] .

Yildiz hotel has an excellent bar and restaurant on the top floor.

Berkerar shopping centre third floor has a variety of fast food outlets and more expensive and better quality sit down with a knife and fork type restaurants. There is also an excellent children's play area for your little ones to have fun and give you some time to eat in peace.

Candybil shopping center has a super Russian restaurant around the back and accessed from the outside. Very pricey but very good and the food can be grilled in front of you on a hazel nut shell BBQ.

Restaurantino is Italian themed and very tasty. located next to the American embassy and is probably your best mix of price and quality.

Cope [ edit ]

Internet [ edit ].

The Internet situation in Turkmenistan is bad – by far the worst in Central Asia – but not as bad as it was in the recent past. There are some Internet cafés around town that have access from around 6 TMT an hour. High speed mobile Internet is available, but short-term visitors will find it hard to complete the necessary paperwork. Popular Apps like WhatsApp, Facebook and Youtube are blocked.

Wi-Fi is available in most hotel lobbies (regardless if you are staying there) and the Yimpas Shopping Center. The American government runs a Public Information Center (in a different building than the embassy) with free, unblocked Internet. The Wi-Fi unfortunately is quite slow but desktop terminals are available.

Airlines [ edit ]

• Lufthansa , http://www.lufthansa.com , ☎ 510684, 510331 , [x] .
• Turkish Airlines , Magtymguly sayoli 73 , ☎ 5161666, 512219 , [x] .
• Turkmenistan Airlines , Magtymguly sayoli 82 , ☎ 352643, International Ticket Office: 394271 , [x] .
• S7 Airlines , Görögly 50 , ☎ 92-30-21 , [x] .
• Belavia , Govshudova (2028) street 50/2 , ☎ 92 64 09 , [x] .

Emergencies [ edit ]

Dial 01 for the fire brigade, 02 for police, 03 for ambulance. Be aware that the operators will speak Turkmen and Russian only.

Embassies and Consulates [ edit ]

• Afghanistan , Garashsyzlyk köcesi, Berzengi , ☎ 480757 . Mon to Fri 9am to 5pm .
• Armenia , Ingenernaya köcesi 37 , ☎ 354418, 395542 ( [email protected] ). Mon to Fri 10-12 am .
• Azerbaijan , 2062 köcesi 44 , ☎ 364608 ( [email protected] , fax : 3646510 ), [x] . Mon to Fri 9am to 1pm, 2 to 6 pm .
• Belarus , Maxim Gorki köcesi 81 , ☎ 331183 ( fax : 331185 ). Tue to Fri 3 to 6 pm .
• China , Kuvvat Hotel, Berzengi , ☎ 488105 ( fax : 481813 ). Tue to Fri 3 to 6 pm .
• France , Ak ALtyn Hotel, third floor , ☎ 363550,363468 . Mon to Fri 9am to 1pm, 3 to 5pm .
• Georgia , Azadi köcesi 139a , ☎ 330828 ( fax : 330248 ). Mon to Fri 9am to 6pm .
• Germany , Al Alty Hotel, first floor, Magtumguly Avenue , ☎ 363515, 363517 to 21 ( [email protected] or [email protected] , fax : 363522 ). Mon to Fri 9 to 12 am .
• India , Emeryal Business Center, 1 Yunus Emre köcesi, mir 2/1 , ☎ 456153 ( fax : 456156 ), [x] .
• Iran , Tehran köcesi 3 , ☎ 350236 ( fax : 350565 ). Mon to Fri 8.30 to 12 am .
• Japan , Paytagi Offic Building, Parahat District , ☎ 477081 ( fax : 477083 ).
• Kazakhstan , Garaszylik sayoli 11-13, International Ustay Compound, Berzengi , ☎ 480468, ( fax : 480468 ). Tue, Thu and Fri 9 to 12am, 5 to 6 pm .
• Kyrgyzstan , Görogly köcesi 14 , ☎ 392064 . Mon to Fri 10 to 12 am, 4 to 6 pm .
• Netherlands , Tehran köcesi 17 , ☎ 346700 ( fax : 344252 ). Mon to Fri 9am to 6pm .
• Pakistan , Garashszlyk köcesi 4/1 , ☎ 482128 and 29 ( [email protected] , fax : 482130 ). Mon to Fri 9-12 am .
• Romania , K.Burunov köcesi 43A , ☎ 347655 ( fax : 347620 ).
• Russia , Turkmenbashi sayoli 11 , ☎ 335957, 391505 ( [email protected] , fax : 398466 ).
• Saudi Arabia , Emperyal Business Center, Yunus Emre köcesi 1 , ☎ 454963 ( fax : 454970 ).
• South Korea , ☎ 94-72-86 1-8 ( [email protected] , fax : 94-72-89 ), [x] . Mon to Fri 9am to 5pm .
• Tajikistan , Gorgoly köcesi 14 , ☎ 480163 ( [email protected] , fax : 481877 ), [x] . Mon to Fri 9am to 1pm, 3 to 5 pm .
• Turkey , Shevchenko köcesi 9 , ☎ 354118 ( [email protected] , fax : 391914 ).
• Ukraine , Azadi köcesi 49 , ☎ 391874 ( [email protected] , fax : 391028 ).
• United Arab Emirates , Kalifa center, Turkembashi sayoli 124 , ☎ 456915 ( fax : 456916 ).
• United Kingdom , Ak Altyn Hotel third floor , ☎ 363462 to 64 , [x] . Mon to Fri 9am to 5pm .
• United States , ☎ (99312) 35 00 45 ( [email protected] , fax : (993-12) 39 26 14 ), [x] .
• Uzbekistan , Turkmenbashy sayoli 124 , ☎ 342419 ( fax : 342337 ). Mon, Wed, Fri 10am to 1pm .
• Vatican , 20A Görogly st. , ☎ 993 12-927546 ( [email protected] , fax : 993 12 65696324 ), [x] . Russian Catholic Mass at 10 am on Sundays, English Catholic Mass at 6 pm on Sundays .

Medical services [ edit ]

• Central Hospital , Emre köcesi 1, phone 450303 or 450331. Foreigners have to pay for their medical treatment.
• International Medical Center , Berzegi, phone 519006 or 519008.
• Lechebnii Hospital , Shevchenko sayoli, phone 390877.
• Dr.Arslan Nepesow , Turkembashi köcesi 124, phone 425250

Registration [ edit ]

• SMST ( State Migration Service of Turkmenistan ) , Azady köçesi 63, phone 38-00-11, 9 to 12 am, 2 to 5 pm. All persons entering Turkmenistan on a tourist or business visa have to register within three working days. You need two passport photos and your entry card. In most cases the tour operator that invited you will organize this for you. Persons holding transit visas are not required to register.

Get out [ edit ]

• Turkmenistan Airlines [ [2] ] operates international flights to Abu Dhabi / United Arab Emirates on Fri and Sun, to Almaty / Kazakhstan on Sat, to Amritsar / India on Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun, to Birmingham / United Kingdom on Thu, Fri and Sun, to Delhi / India on Sat and Sun, to Dubai / United Arab Emirates on Tue, to Frankfurt / Germany on Tue, Sat and Sun, to Istanbul / Turkey on Mon, Tue, Wed and Sat, to Kiev / Ukraine on Sat, to London / United Kingdom on Tue and Sat, to Moscow / Russia from Mon to Sat and to Tashkent / Uzbekistan on Tue, Ankara , Riga , Saint Petersburg , Minsk , Paris , Kuala Lumpur International flights are operated by B-737, B-757 or B-777 aircraft. (2015)

Turkmenistan Airlines [ [3] ] offers domestic flights to Dashogus (6 flights per day), Mary (3 flights per day), Turkmenabat (5 flights per day) and Turkmenbashi (3 flights per day), Balkanabat . (2015)

• Flydubai operates flight to Dubai / UAE .
• There is on flight to Minsk / Belarus , operated by Belavia .
• Lufthansa operates flight to Frankfurt / Germany on Tue, Fri and Sat (via Baku / Azerbaijan ).
• Turkish Airlines has flights to Istanbul / Turkey on Thu, Sat and Mon morning.
• China Southern Airlines operates flight to Ürümqi / China .
• S7 Airlines operates flight to Moscow / Russia .

Turkmendemiryollari (Turkmenistan Zeleznice) (phone 255545, fax 473858) runs trains from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi and Turkmenabat via Mary .

Train 24 to Turkmenbashi leaves Ashabat every second day at 8.40 pm and arrives at Turkmenbashi at 6.55 am next morning. Train 606 leaves Ashabat daily at 8.10 pm, arriving in Turkmenbashi at 9.15 am next morning.

Trains to Turkmenabat and Mary leave Ashabat at 7.40 daily, arriving at Mary at 5 pm and at Turkmenabat at 11 pm. Train 195 leaves Ashabat daily at 5.20 pm and arrives at Turkmenabat at 7.35 am next morning. Train 21 leaves Ashabat every second day at 10.10 pm, ans arrives at Mary at 5.25 and at Turkmenabat at 9.40 next morning.

• Iran - Take a taxi to the border, which is about 7km south of the city, so $10 should be enough to offer. After going through the first checkpoint its a 25 minute drive across nice landscape in a shared minibus, for which they charge a very steep 40 Manat/ $14 approx per person. This is the price for foreigners.

After entering into Iran, take the frequent bus to Bajgiran village 2km down the road (10,000 rial), from where you can find a taxi to take you to Quchan 70km away (250,000 - 300,000 rial / $8-10) (Sept 2013). If continuing to Mashhad just say "Mashhad autobus" and they should take you to the correct location. The taxis leaving from the border are more expensive than the village, so its worth the short journey.

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Visit to Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan

20/12/2021 by Roobens 1 Comment

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Turkmenistan, does that sound familiar to you? I’m not sure… And Ashgabat, its capital? Even less familiar I guess. Yes, you can open a new tab and check on Google Maps where this country is on a world map. And honestly, like most people, I didn’t know much about this country, Turkmenistan, one of the most secluded countries in the world (with North Korea). But as I was getting closer to Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan, I did more and more research, and I learned more and more about the country. Once I got in Turkmenistan, I already knew a lot, and I was able to start my visit serenely. Before we talk about my visit to Ashgabat, a few explanations about Turkmenistan!

Table of Contents

History of Turkmenistan

In case you didn’t know, Turkmenistan was part of the ex-USSR. After the dissolution of the USSR in 1991, Turkmenistan became an independent country, and Saparmyrat Nyyazow became its president. President is the official term. I’d rather say one of the most authoritarian dictators in the world . “Elected” president for life, he imposed his rules to the country : he picked February 19th (date of his birthday) as the National day of the country, there are statues of that guy all over the place in the country, until recently his face was on all the different manat bills (their currency), and Turkoman kids study books written by the president. Needless to say, those books praise him. The most famous is Ruhnama “The Book of the Soul”, and according to him, his book is as important as the Quran and the Bible…

The president passed in 2006 and his successor, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, still president to this day, is not better. A personality cult is promoted around him as well, and we can see his portrait almost everywhere in the country. In this context, no wonder Turkmenistan is one of the most secluded countries in the world. The situation of the human right is disastrous : no freedom of speech nor freedom of the press, a lot of websites are blocked (Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, international press…), political parties are forbidden (except the official party), there are suspicious deaths in prison… This is one of the most corrupted and repressive country in the world.

Turkmenistan, a totalitarian regime

What about the international community? Why don’t they do something? Pretty simple, Turkmenistan has a huge gaz reserve, and they also have a lot of oil. And the country often asks counstruction companies from Western companies to build or renovate buildings in the country.

Anyway… The question you might wonder now… Why the fuck did you go there??? You were not scared? It wasn’t dangerous? FYI, there’s no correlation between the dangerousness of a country and its political regime (democracy, dictatorship, totalitarianism…). In a totalitarian country like Turkmenistan, journalists or those in opposition with the political power get arrested, not the tourists. In those countries, the police presence is often very important, and therefore there’s almost no delinquency.

Just some basic rules : don’t talk politics with the locals, and you won’t have any problems. And most importantly don’t take photos of official buildings, of the army, police officers… More than once, I didn’t know if I could take a picture of this place or that building, so I didn’t take a lot of pictures in Ashgabat. On top of that, there are military men everywhere, and they’re doing the military salute when you walk past them.

Regarding my stay in this country and in Ashgabat, I wanted to travel in Central Asia , including Darvaza in Turkmenistan , and they granted me a visa ( very difficult to get it ). So I just went there. And it was time for me to visit Ashgabat, the capital city of this country!

Description of Ashgabat

First thing that struck me. The city is very clean and very well maintained. Completely different from Iran in general, polluted and with lots of detritus on the floor. Roads are impeccable (mostly 4-lane roads), and the cars… All extremely clean! I found out why later… It’s forbidden to drive with a dirty car , or you’ll get a fine… Therefore, Turkoman people take great care of their cars.

Follow the rules in Turkmenistan

There are a lot of different rules to follow in this country, and you better know them if you don’t wanna get in big trouble! It’s completely forbidden to smoke in all the public spaces of the country : in the street, in the parks, in public buildings, in your car if you’re driving (but the passengers can smoke!). There’s a Turkmenistan curfew from 11pm to 6am, do not stay outside during this time slot! From my hotel room, I could hear sirens from police cars constantly during the night.

Oh and don’t even think about hitting on a beautiful Turkoman girl, foreigners cannot find themselves alone with a Turkoman woman . Either at the restaurant, outside, in a car… Otherwise you’ll get a fine, you might go to jail and you’ll get deported from the country. Oh and the girl is gonna get in trouble as well… Exception : on a professional field, it’s tolerated.

The locals are nice

A lot of rules to follow. I listed the main ones but there are even more you should check out before traveling to Turkmenistan . But actually there wasn’t anything too restrictive if we think about it. I don’t smoke, I didn’t go there by car, I don’t stay out late at night and I limited my interactions with the women in the country, on purpose. Complicated when those girls come to you “ Hey there! Where are you from? What are you doing here? etc… ” Yes, people keep asking for pictures (mostly young guys), I still hear “ Hello! “, some guys greet me from their cars, honk at me, wave at me… And when I say I’m from France, two names come up all the time : Zidane and Pogba . They say I look like Pogba… Anyway, communication with the locals is limited, they speak Turkmen and Russian, and apart from a few ones, their English is basic.

Regarding the Turkoman women, they greet me and ask me what I’m doing here. Some of them look like Russian girls, a lot start to look like Asian girls (brunette, slanting eyes…). Almost all of them wear long dresses, and a scarf they tie around their hairs. I have to admit that I was limiting my conversations with them on purpose, knowing the rules of the country. And knowing there’s a secret police , watching what everyone’s doing.

I saw a lot of people on the edge of the road, sticking out their arm, waiting for a car to stop. Like Tehran , any car can be a taxi. I did it myself, and you rarely wait for more than two minutes before someone stops for you. Once in the car, you can “admire” the big white marble buildings, and the towers inspired by Dubai.

Getting in the country is difficult for foreigners, which is why tourism isn’t really developed (there are no begpackers here haha). Apart from a few expensive museums, there’s no real tourist attractions in Ashgabat… It was still interesting to see what the capital city of a secluded country looked like. And to find out that the inhabitants are welcoming and helpful.

How to get to Ashgabat

Unless you’re already in the area (Central Asia or Iran), you will hae to take a flight to go to Ashgabat. Click here to check the latest flight prices to go to Turkmenistan.

How to get around in Ashgabat

The city is vast. You can ask your hotel to hire a driver for the day or for a few hours just for you. I don’t have the prices… Otherwise stick out your arm and wait for someone to stop. You’ll never wait for a long time, someone will quickly stop. I did it several times. There are also official taxis.

Where to stay in Ashgabat

In Ashgabat, there’s only one hostel, Syyahat Hotel. Often fully booked… Otherwise there are just regular or luxury hotels… The hotels with the best reviews are the Yyldyz Hotel, the Oguzkent Hotel and the Nissa Hotel. Bear in mind that hotels only accept US dollars. It’s impossible to pay in manat, their currency! For your information, there’s Airbnb in Ashgabat! Click here to check the apartments available there!

Ashgabat travel tips

• Traveling soon? Check out my travel resources page! This list of travel accessories can also be useful!
• Wanna go to Ashgabat? Or in Turkmenistan? Like Iran , I wrote an article with a lot of travel tips before going to Turkmenistan (visa, money…). Check it out!
• Do not go to Turkmenistan without a travel insurance ! You never know what could happen… Here’s why you should buy travel insurance !
• Want a tailor-made trip to Turkmenistan? Get a free quote here !
• I said it earlier, many websites are blocked in Turkmenistan. To use the internet freely, you need a VPN in Ashgabat (and in Turkmenistan in general) . I use ExpressVPN , fast and efficient. I really recommend it! It allowed me to surf the net freely. Here’s why you should use a VPN when traveling !

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ASHKHABAD (Russian; Persian ʿEšqābād), since 1924 the capital of the Soviet Republic of Turkmenistan. It lies 40 km north of the Iranian frontier and is a station on the Central Asian Railway from Krasnovodsk (on the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea) to Tashkent, built in the years 1885-99. Formerly it was called ʿAsḵābād and Askabad, from 1921 to 1927 it bore the name Poltoratsk. Ashkhabad lies between 214 and 240 m above sea level. At the time of the Russian conquest in 1881 it was a village ( aul ) of about 500 tents. As the hub of the Russian district of “Transcaspia” Ashkhabad grew rapidly and by 1897 had a population of 19,428, mostly merchants and civil servants. By 1926 the population had increased to 51,593; in 1939 the figure was 127,000, in 1965 219,000 and in January 1970 253,000. In 1965 thirty per cent of the inhabitants were Turkomans, forty-three percent were Russians and fourteen percent were Armenians. The proportion of Persians and Tajiks has always been very small.

Ashkhabad quickly achieved economic and cultural importance, as it lay at the intersection of several caravan routes. Up to 1948, however, it could not boast any notable civic monuments. The city was repeatedly struck by earthquakes (in 1893, 1895, and 1929), with a particularly severe tremor on 9 October 1948 which virtually reduced it to rubble. In 1905-06 there was some rioting there in connection with the Russo-Japanese War. In December 1917 the city fell into Bolshevik hands; it was retaken in June 1918 with the aid of British troops but was occupied once more by the Red Army when the British withdrew in July 1919. The reconstruction program after 1948 attempted to combine traditional and modern elements. The cultural institutions, some of which had already existed before 1917, were built up once again. From 1949 the city housed a branch of the Soviet Academy of Sciences which became an independent academy in 1951; it specializes in desert and earthquake research. The Turkoman Gor’kiĭ University was founded in 1950, and there are four other institutes of higher education (including a polytechnic and colleges of agriculture and medicine). Ashkhabad has three museums containing an important collection of items relating to the indigenous Turkoman culture; a theatre and a concert hall; an academic library with some Persian manuscripts and thirty-eight civic libraries; a zoo, “cultural institutes” (e.g., for railway men or workers in the oil industry), and many administrative buildings. It also has an airport. In 1962 the Qara Qum canal was extended as far as Ashkhabad.

Local industries include steel works, engineering, vehicle assembly, oil refining, the manufacture of building materials and textiles (especially silk), and food production. The district of Ashkhabad encompasses the northern flank of Kopet-Dag, the Taǰen oasis and the central area of the Qara Qum desert with its deposits of zinc, lead, sulphur, barites, and possibly oil.

To the west of the city lie the ruins of Nasā ( Nisa ), the Parthian capital, to the east Anau, center of an important ancient culture discovered in 1904. Here too stands a charming mosque with an inscription by the architect Abu’l-Qāsem Bābor, who died in 864/1456-57.

Bibliography :

A. Babaev and Z. G. Freĭkin, Ashkhabad , Ashkhabad, 1957.

Z. G. Freĭkin, Turkmenskaya SSR (The Soviet Republic of Turkmenistan), Moscow, 1957.

Turkmenistan , Moscow, 1969 (in the series “Sovetskiĭ Soyuz”).

B. Spuler in EI 2 I, pp. 700f.

Great Soviet Encyclopaedia 3 (in Russian) II, p. 474 (with map and illustrations; also Plates 37 and 38); Eng. tr., New York and London, II, 1973, pp. 400-01.

Search terms :

(B. Spuler)

Originally Published: December 15, 1987

Last Updated: August 16, 2011

This article is available in print. Vol. II, Fasc. 7, p. 750

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Turkmenistan opens elaborate ‘smart city’ development

Actors wearing Turkmen national costumes dance during a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

The president of Turkmenistan Serdar Berdymukhamedov walks during a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

The president of Turkmenistan Serdar Berdymukhamedov, right, walks during a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

The president of Turkmenistan Serdar Berdymukhamedov, centre, attends a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

Men wearing Turkmen national costumes ride Akhal-Teke horses during a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

Balloons launch at a monument of Akhan, a favourite Akhal-Teke horse of former Turkmenistan president Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov, during a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

Riders lead Akhan, a favourite Akhal-Teke horse of former Turkmenistan president Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov, during a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

People walk during a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

People walk during a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. .(AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

A view of of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

A view of the gilded monument “Arkadag”, installed in honour of former Turkmenistan president Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov in the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Sunday, May 7, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

Women wearing national Turkmen clothes sprinkle flour on white electric cars donated by Turkish President Erdogan for the city of Arkadag so that they would drive for a long time, and fumigated them with smoke, which, according to legend, drives away evil spirits, during a ceremony of the officially opening of the new Arkadag city, about 30 kilometers (20 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, Thursday, June 29, 2023. The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially opened a vast multibillion-dollar development hailed as the isolated country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler. (AP Photo/Alexander Vershinin)

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The president of Turkmenistan on Thursday officially inaugurated a vast, multibillion-dollar development hailed as the country’s first “smart city” and named after the president’s father, who established a pervasive cult of personality when he was the longtime ruler.

The city designed for 70,000 is named Arkadag (Protector), a title used by former president Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov, who led the country for 15 years before being succeeded last year by his son Serdar .

The opening ceremony, led by Serdar Berdymukhamedov, featured a theatrical procession of local workers singing patriotic songs in honor of the city’s namesake. The city includes a monument of his father’s favorite horse, which established the Guinness world record for running 10 meters on its hind legs.

Located about 30 kilometers (about 18 miles) south of the capital Ashgabat, the “smart city” is being presented as a prototype for other Turkmen cities, featuring electric buses and automobiles, solar power and “smart” houses that residents can control via their smartphones. The first phase of Arkadag cost an estimated $3.3 billion.

Since independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, Turkmenistan has been led by authoritarian regimes that allow no significant opposition and has sharply limited access from abroad. Both the elder Berdymukhamedov and his predecessor Saparmurat Niyazov developed cults of personality that included elaborate tributes and monuments.

The isolated country has also struggled to diversify its economy, which is overwhelmingly dependent on its vast natural gas reserves.

Upcoming events

The 28 th “Oil & Gas of Turkmenistan - 2023” International Conference & EXPO

25-27 October, 2023

Deadline for exhibition stand reservation -  October 5 .

In collaboration with:

The 28 th International Expo "Oil and Gas of Turkmenistan" (OGT-2023) will be held in Ashgabat on October 25-27, 2022. The Exhibition is organized by the State Concerns "Turkmengaz", "Turkmennebit", the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Turkmenistan, and the State Corporation “Turkmengeology” in partnership with Turkmen Forum and UK-based GaffneyCline.  The Exhibition aim to strengthen the regional dialogue on further sustainable development of the energy sector, review the latest tendencies in the global energy system and expand the opportunities for attracting foreign direct investment to the oil and gas industry of Turkmenistan. The OGT Expo, which will run in parallel with the conference will present the best highlights from the domestic and global oil & gas industries, reinvigorated with new ideas and features to match the current industry agenda. New elements introduced at this year’s Expo put a key focus on highlighting the importance of acceleration of cooperation between IOCs and NOCs, reinforcing the growing role of mutually beneficial partnerships. 

The conference will see presentations and panel sessions with the participation of senior management of national oil companies as well as CEOs of the leading international oil companies, major international organizations and financial institutions.

Due to international travel restrictions, the event will be held in both traditional and online formats. This approach will also be used to organize meetings on the sidelines of the Conference with the management of the Turkmen oil and gas sector.

For more details please, visit the forum website: www.ogt-turkmenistan.com , or contact Turkmen Forum team on [email protected] or by calling on: +993 62110069.

Chamber of Commerce and industry of Turkmenistan was established in order to promote the development of the economy of Turkmenistan, its integration into the world economic system, the formation of a modern industrial, financial and trade infrastructure, create favorable conditions for business, and assist in establishing trade, economic, scientific and technical ties with foreign partners.